Entries By dustin wittmier

Tuesday, June 3, 2025 9:21pm PDT

Hello world! Checking in from camp.

1. Patience is the name of the game up here. We’re soaking in the surroundings — even if it’s continuous snowfall and low visibility. White on white on white. Quiet and peaceful, contrasting with the surreal weather that accompanies this part of the world.

2. We woke up today and had to dig ourselves out of our tents. We wandered into the kitchen tent to get caffeinated and enjoy some delicious blueberry pancakes. Since the weather has taken a bit of a turn, we got the news that we’d need to hunker down here for the second day in a row.

3. Today was different from yesterday in the sense that the wind and snowfall picked up — around half an inch per hour. So, our time outside was limited.

4. We spent some time clearing snow from the gear bags and around the tents, making sure it wasn’t creeping into places it shouldn’t be. A couple of us even began building what essentially became the Great Wall of Snow to protect our tents from the elements.

5. To pass the time, we snacked, practiced tying knots, and, more than anything, had conversations with the team — getting to know each other better, telling stories, and understanding where everyone comes from.

6. Although we all have the same goal, we come from different backgrounds. That’s the beauty of mountaineering — it brings together different souls from different walks of life.

7. Tomorrow, we’re planning to carry some gear and supplies up to around 9,600 feet, then return to sleep at our current camp. Hopefully, the following day, we’ll continue moving upward.

8. Spirits are high, we’re all hopeful, and we’re looking forward to having this beautiful mountain grace us with more of her presence.

- Connor Michalek 

Monday, June 3, 2025 - 7:22 am PT

We awoke to low visibility and fresh snowfall on our tent.  We waited a few hrs in hopes that the clouds would rise and visibility  would improve . We never left camp to start our carry and we are thankful we didn’t because the weather deteriorated more that afternoon and into the evening. While staying at camp we snacked, napped, read and organized camp. We then had some delicious, spicy  burritos for dinner and talked about writing a guide book for hot sauces. 

Shout out to all our friends and family back home!

Best,

RMI Guides Lacie, Dustin, Will and team

Sunday, June 1, 2025 - 7:20 pm PT

We have arrived at the base of Ski Hill after flying on yesterday evening. Due to our late arrival, we setup at Basecamp and spent the evening reviewing skills and learning how to build an expedition glacier camp. Now our heaviest move of the trip is complete and we are hoping to carry tomorrow.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier and his team checked in from the K2 Aviation airstrip to let us know they’re en route to Base Camp. Their next update will come from the slopes of Mt. McKinley!

Friday, May 30, 2025 - 11:47 pm PT

RMI Denali Team #4 is assembled and after a full day of packing, is ready to embark on a grand adventure. What exact adventure awaits is somewhat of an unknown, an uncertainty that is a part of the process.

Today was spent packing, leaving no stone unturned because once we land on the glacier we basically just have what we have. Sure, some bartering can take place at the various camps, but we must make every effort to remember every item. Details matter.

Also throughout the day we continued to acquaint ourselves with the logistics of climbing and specifically of climbing this route in full expedition style. The K2 Aviation team gave us a quick orientation about flying on; and we were in close contact with them all day, sorting some additional details about our flights and basecamp logistics. The National Park Service briefed us on the route and provided some information that will help us climb responsibly in regard to our safety as a team and our ability to keep the mountain clean.

To wrap up the day we had a meal at the Denali Brewpub and got to bed hopefully early enough to get a full night's rest in a real bed, possibly our last for a few weeks. One big sigh of relief for every climber, knowing they have everything they need packed and ready to go.

RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier, Lacie Smith, Will Ambler & Team

The Four Day Climb from May 19–22, led by RMI Guide Brent Okita, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning!

At 7:40 AM, the team was at 13,500 feet and continuing their ascent. Conditions were snowy, but the team was doing well. Camp Muir reported high clouds and no wind at that time. By 9:15 AM, the team had successfully reached the summit.

They will return to Camp Muir to pack up their gear before continuing their descent to Paradise later today.

Nice work, team!

RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier and Dominic Cifelli led their Four Day teams May 15 - 18, on an early alpine start from Camp Muir this morning.  Unfortunately, high winds forced the teams to turn around at 10,600 feet. Everyone returned safely to Camp Muir. They plan to begin their descent at 9:30 a.m. PT and are expected to arrive back at Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford by early afternoon.

It has been a rewarding and exhausting week and a half traveling around Ecuador and venturing into the high mountains. Yesterday, we concluded the trip with an attempt of Cotopaxi, followed by a celebration dinner in Quito. We did not summit Cotopaxi and yet, had a meaningful and memorable experience. There are some days that the mountain does not grant reasonably safe passage and that is just how it goes. Reflecting on my own experiences climbing in this country, some of the windless, sunny days where we reached big summits have begun to blend together. On the other hand, those nights with unrelenting wind, rain, snow, rime ice or lightning really stand out. Our attempt of Cotopaxi falls into that category.

As we left the hut, the feeling was that the steady 20-30mph wind would need to relent during the early morning hours as we went higher on the mountain. Adding to this, we were occassionaly spritzed by rain or very moist clouds. I know that may sound like the same thing, but there is a subtle difference. Either way, by the time we reached the glacier our clothing was thoroughly coated in rime ice and we found ourselves in even more need of improvements in the weather. We began the long, steep traverse from the entrance of the glacier to the Yanasacha Ridge and the weather never improved. At 17600' we made the decision for the team to turn around. That is a tough call to make, albeit the right one. Most people's reflection seemed to include some continued dialing of how much weather is too much weather. I often reflect using a thought process along the lines of: if I continue to the summit in these conditions 100 times, does something catastrophic occur? Of course, we can't know for sure the answer to that, but we can begin to imagine the variety of outcomes and I think we all know a 1 in 100 chance of catastrophe is not worth the reward. We can feel proud to have pushed ourselves in adverse conditions and have had a learning experience.

Today the team is parting ways. Most are headed home to family, while some are extending their vacations or climbing plans further into South America. Wherever it is, this team now carries with them some great memories and stories to be shared.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier & Team

Monday, January 27, 2025 - 11:43 pm PT

What a proper effort that was. Every member of our team pushed themselves today and some reached the summit of Cayambe, while others reached personal high points. Overall, the climb was a great learning experience.

It was a pretty challenging climb. We sat in the hut for most of the day yesterday because it was too rainy to go outside. Then knowing we needed to get an early start, we left the hut with wind and a light mist, wearing hard shell jackets and pants. We had to push towards the upper mountain gambling on some clearing in the weather and we got just that, SOME clearing. We faced moderate winds for most of the remainder of the climb as well as clouds that obscured visibility at times. Everyone had a thin layer of rime ice.

We're now headed to a hacienda for two nights of rest before heading off to Cotopaxi!

RMI Guide Dustin Witmier

RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier and Mike Bennett and the Ecuador Volcanoes team reached the summit of Cayambe earlier this morning. 

Way to climb!