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Travel Consultant

RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide comprehensive travel support. We have been working with Erin for many years. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe and is extremely knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or send an email to [email protected].

Travel Insurance

Travel insurance is required for this trip. Your travel insurance policy should include trip cancellation, trip interruption, trip delay, baggage loss or delay, medical expenses, and evacuation.

Navigating through the different options for travel insurance can be confusing. For this reason, we have partnered with Ripcord Insurance because some of their policies are designed for adventure travel with coverages for remote activities with no altitude restrictions.

When purchasing Travel Insurance, here are a few items to consider:

• Read the fine print. Travel Insurance will refund you when canceling for a covered reason for any non-refundable cancellation fees. However, there are exclusions, so make sure you understand the "covered reasons."
• Confirm that your activity is a covered “activity.” Not all travel insurance policies will offer coverage for activities such as mountaineering, climbing, skiing, or trekking adventures. Policies can also exclude coverage for activities due to the gear used (crampons, ice axe), for activities that go above certain elevations or for activities in a particular region of the world. If there are exclusions, you may need to add an "Adventure" or "Sports" package to cover your activity.
• Verify that your state of residence is allowed with the policy that you are purchasing. Not all insurance companies offer policies in all 50 states.

 

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance is travel insurance designed for adventurers, including the best evacuation and rescue services available.

Benefits are tailored for adventurers and include:

• Rescue and evacuation from the point of illness or emergency to your home hospital of choice.
• Trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, sporting goods, baggage loss, emergency dental, Accidental Death & Dismemberment (AD&D), and more.
• Completely integrated one-stop program with a single contact for emergency services to travel assistance and insurance claims.
• 24/7 access to paramedics, nurses, and military veterans.
• Security extraction in case of unexpected dangerous and chaotic events.

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance is powered by Redpoint Resolutions, a medical and travel security risk company. Their team is comprised of special operations veterans, paramedics, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, former intelligence officers, insurance actuaries, and global security experts with dozens of years of experience in theaters around the world. The Redpoint network covers the globe, making them uniquely equipped to provide elite rescue travel insurance – in every sense of the word. Whether it’s reimbursing you for a canceled trip, paying your travel medical bills, or evacuating you home in an emergency, Ripcord takes the worry out of your travel.

Getting to Talkeetna

FLIGHTS TO ALASKA

Climbers need to arrive at Anchorage International Airport (ANC) by 1:00 pm on Day 1 of the program. The group will meet at 1:30 p.m., Alaska Airlines domestic baggage claim, carousel #1.

If your flight cannot arrive in Anchorage before 1:00 p.m., it will be necessary to arrive a day earlier and go to the airport to meet the team.

We have found it works well to book a one-way flight to Anchorage, AK, for the beginning of your trip, then scheduling your return flight once the team returns to Talkeetna. Another option is to book a flight with a flexible return date. This works better than an open-ended ticket or missing an early return date.

SHUTTLE TO TALKEETNA

We will arrange a transfer from Anchorage to Talkeetna at 2:00 p.m. the day your program begins. Please arrive in Anchorage no later than 1:00 p.m. Talkeetna is a three-hour drive from Anchorage. If you are traveling to Talkeetna on your own, please let RMI know in advance that you will not require transportation.

Anchorage Accommodations Near the Airport

If you are arriving in Anchorage the day before your program begins, below are some hotel options close to the Anchorage Airport:

• The Lakefront
• Holiday Inn Express
• Coast Inn at Lake Hood
• Courtyard by Marriott

Weather

Denali's weather forecast is updated through the National Weather Service

Tipping

Our guides work hard to ensure your well-being and success on the mountain. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment. Tips for excellent service normally average 10 – 15% of the cost of the program. If you would rather not bring the guide gratuity with you on the trip, you can send a check or call the RMI office to pay with a credit card upon your return.

Resources

Mountaineering is replete with literary accounts of high adventure in Alaska. For aspiring Denali climbers, certain historical narratives, as well as how-to guide books, can prove both entertaining and educational, significantly adding to one's enjoyment of the expedition.

The list below represents some personal favorites from over three decades of guiding in Alaska. I particularly enjoy the story of the first winter ascent: Minus 148 degrees!

Whether you are challenging the West Buttress or learning crevasse rescue on the Ruth Glacier, these titles will greatly enhance your experience and appreciation of Alaska!

- Joe Horiskey

Bass, D., Wells, F., Ridgeway, R.  Seven Summits 1986

Beckey, Fred  Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America 1993

Bezruhka, Stephen  Altitude Illness - Prevention & Treatment 2001

Cole, Terence  The Sourdough Expedition: Stories of the Pioneer Alaskans Who Climbed Mount McKinley in  l910 1985

Davidson, Art  Minus 148: The Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley 1986

Houston, Charles  Going Higher: The Story of Man and Altitude 1987

Mason, Gen  Minus Three 1970

Michener, James A.  Alaska 1988

Moore, Terris   Mount McKinley: The Pioneer Climbs 1981

Roberts, David  The Mountain of My Fear 1968

Randall, Francis  Denali Diary: Letters from McKinley 1987

Seattle Mountaineers The Freedom of the Hills 2017

Selters, Andy  Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue 2009 (second printing)

Sherwonit, Bill  To The Top of Denali 2013 (third edition)

Sherwonit, Bill  Denali, A Literary Anthology 2000

Stuck, Hudson  The Ascent of Denali 1914

Washburn, B., Roberts, D.  Mount McKinley - The Conquest of Denali 1991

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Qualifications

This trip is open to all individuals in excellent physical condition and with previous climbing experience of a glaciated summit (Mt. Rainier, Mt. Baker, Mt. Shasta, or similar). Prior knowledge and experience with rope travel, the use of crampons, and ice axe arrest is required. This is a great next step toward Denali participation.

Qualifying Programs

Recommended climbing experiences prior to the Expedition Skills Seminar - Ruth Glacier include:

Physical Fitness Training

Mountaineering requires a high degree of physical stamina and mental toughness. Even for the healthiest and fittest individuals, climbing mountains qualifies as an extremely challenging endeavor.

• Start immediately. Start a rigorous fitness and training program now with the goal of arriving in top physical condition and confident in your skills.
• Be intentional. Focus on gaining the necessary strength, stamina, and skills to meet the physical and technical demands of the climb.
• Be sport-specific. The best fitness and training program mimics the physical and technical demands of your climbing objective. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble the climbing.

For the Expedition Skills Seminar - Ruth Glacier, you are preparing for:

• Hiking and trekking with a 40-50 lb. load

• Using core strength and flexibility to navigate uneven terrain

Nothing ensures a personally successful adventure like your level of fitness and training. Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life and ready for a very challenging adventure!

Please refer to our Resources for Mountaineering Fitness and Training for detailed fitness and training information.

Acclimatization

No acclimatization is necessary for this program.

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Equipment List

• Pack & Travel

• Guide Pick™

• • 
    DUFFEL BAG

    100+ liter bag made of tough material with rugged zippers. This can be used as your checked bag on your flight to Alaska and to store excess gear in Talkeetna.

  • • Patagonia Black Hole Duffel 100L
    • North Face Base Camp Duffel 132L

• • 
    SLED DUFFEL BAG

    A lightweight 100+ liter duffel to transport gear in your sled. This bag does not need to be waterproof. This can also be used as your second checked bag on your flight to Alaska.

  • • Outdoor Products Mammoth Deluxe Duffel - XL only

• • 
    85+ LITER BACKPACK

    Your pack must be large enough for your layers, climbing gear, and food, as well as a portion of your tent and your share of group equipment. The pack volume you choose depends on your experience and the quality of your gear; if you opt for a smaller pack, practice packing and make sure you can fit all of your gear with room to spare. You will not need a separate summit pack.

  • • Men's Gregory Denali 100
    • Women's Osprey Ariel Plus 85

• Sleeping Bag & Pad

• Guide Pick™

• • 
    SLEEPING BAG

    We recommend a bag rated between 20° and 0° F. Allow ample room for movement. We recommend down over synthetic for its light weight, warmth, and packability. If climbing in April, May, June, or September, or if you know you sleep cold, consider a 0° F bag.

  • • Mountain Hardwear Lamina 15°
    • Women's Mountain Hardwear Lamina 15°
    • Mountain Hardwear Phantom Alpine 15°

• • 
    COMPRESSION STUFF SACK FOR SLEEPING BAG
  • • Sea to Summit eVent Compression Dry Sack
    • Sea to Summit Ultra Sil Compression Sack

• • 
    INFLATABLE SLEEPING PAD

    A full-length inflatable pad.

  • • Therm-A-Rest NeoAir XLite
    • Therm-A-Rest ProLite Plus
    • Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XTherm MAX Sleeping Pad

• • 
    CLOSED FOAM SLEEPING PAD

    A full-length closed cell foam pad, used in combination with the inflatable sleeping pad.

  • • Exped FlexMat

• Technical Gear

• Guide Pick™

• • 
    ICE AXE

    The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm axe; and taller, use a 75 cm axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.

  • • Black Diamond Raven Pro
    • Black Diamond Venom
    • Petzl Summit Ice Axe

• • 
    CLIMBING HARNESS

    We recommend a comfortable, adjustable alpine climbing harness. Removable, drop seat, or adjustable leg loops are convenient for managing your clothing layers over the course of the climb and facilitate going to the bathroom.

  • • Black Diamond Couloir
    • Petzl Altitude

• • 
    1 TRIPLE-ACTION LOCKING CARABINER

    Used for clipping into the climbing rope.

  • • Petzl William Triact Lock

• • 
    2 LOCKING CARABINER(S)

    Used for clipping into anchors, etc.

  • • Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate

• • 
    6 NON-LOCKING CARABINER(S)

    Used for pack ditch loop, etc.

  • • Petzl Ange S
    • Petzl Ange L

• • 
    CRAMPONS

    12-point adjustable steel crampons with anti-balling plates designed for general mountaineering use.

  • • Petzl Vasak Crampon
    • Black Diamond Sabretooth

• • 
    AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVER WITH FRESH BATTERIES

    Bring extra batteries appropriate to the duration of the climb.

  • • Ortovox Diract Avalanche Transceiver

• • 
    TREKKING POLES

    We recommend lightweight and collapsible poles with snow baskets.

  • • Black Diamond Expedition 3 Poles
    • Black Diamond Trail Back Trekking Poles
    • Women's Black Diamond Trail Trekking Poles

• • 
    MECHANICAL ASCENDER (OPTIONAL)

    For practicing fixed line travel. You guides will also provide one to practice with. Most people prefer an ascender designed for their weak hand, leaving their strong hand free to hold their ice axe. For example, a right-handed person would use a left-handed ascender.

  • • Petzl Ascension Ascender

• • 
    3 DOUBLE LENGTH SEWN NYLON SLING

    120 cm sewn sling ("double-length runner").

  • • Black Diamond 10mm Dynex Runners

• • 
    2 SINGLE LENGTH SEWN NYLON SLING

    60 cm sewn sling ("single-length runner").

  • • Black Diamond 10mm Dynex Runners

• • 
    20' ACCESSORY CORD

    6mm accessory cord for sled tether, sled prussik, and ditch loop.

  • • Sterling Accessory Cord

• • 
    4 BUNGEE CORDS

    Approximately 12-20” each.

  • • Coghlan's Stretch Cords - 20"

• • 
    20' NYLON CORD

    Paracord or thin (3-4mm) accessory cord for lashing your duffel onto your sled.

  • • Coghlan's Paracord 50' - Black

• • 
    SNOWSHOES

    Select a short to medium length model of snowshoe- 22" is an ideal size. Team members are more often 'drafting' as opposed to actually breaking trail, so it is not necessary to have a longer pair. You will log miles of roped glacier travel while wearing snowshoes, so spend some time walking in them prior to the trip. We highly recommend models with a heel lift, which makes uphill travel significantly easier.

  • • MSR Evo Ascent
    • Men's MSR Lightning Ascent
    • Women's MSR Lightning Ascent

• Head

• Guide Pick™

• • 
    HELMET

    A UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) or CE (European Committee for Standardization) certified climbing helmet.

  • • Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet
    • Petzl Sirocco Helmet
    • Women's Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet
    • Black Diamond Vapor Helmet

• • 
    WARM HAT

    Wool or synthetic. It should provide warmth but also be thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.

  • • Mountain Hardwear Power Stretch Beanie

• • 
    BALL CAP OR SUN HAT
  • • RMI Expeditions Patch Hat
    • Mt. Rainier Elevation Hat
    • Outdoor Research Sun Runner Hat
    • Outdoor Research Helios Sun Hat

• • 
    BUFF

    A Buff provides versitile head and neck protection. A neck gaiter is also acceptable.

  • • Original Ecostretch Buff
    • Merino Lightweight Buff
    • RMI Tubie

• • 2 PROTECTIVE FACE MASK(S)

    Cloth or surgical face mask for use in situations where 6 feet of distance from others cannot be maintained.

• • HEADLAMP NOT REQUIRED FOR THIS TRIP

    You may bring a headlamp if your trip takes place during the first two weeks of May.

• • 
    GLACIER GLASSES

    Glacier glasses are protective sunglasses that provide close to 100% frame coverage (wrap-around frames and side shields ensure no light can enter from the top, bottom, and sides of the glasses) and transmit less than 10% of visual light.

  • • Julbo Shield
    • Women's Julbo Monterosa
    • Julbo Explorer 2.0

• • 
    GOGGLES

    Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. On windy days, climbers, especially contact lens wearers, may find photochromatic lenses the most versatile in a variety of light conditions.

  • • Smith Range
    • Smith I/O MAG

• Hands

  Each glove layer is worn separately as conditions change during the climb.

• Guide Pick™

• • 
    LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVES

    Light weight liner or softshell gloves. Lighter colors absorb less sunlight while still offering UV protection.

  • • Men's Outdoor Research Stormtracker Sensor Gloves
    • Women's Outdoor Research Stormtracker Sensor Gloves
    • Black Diamond Softshell Glove

• • 
    MEDIUM WEIGHT GLOVES

    Wind- and water-resistant, insulated mountain gloves.

  • • Black Diamond Patrol Glove
    • Rab Pivot GTX Glove
    • Women's Outdoor Research Arete Glove

• • 
    HEAVY WEIGHT GLOVES OR MITTENS

    Wind- and water-resistant, insulated gloves or mittens. These also serve as emergency backups if you drop or lose a lighter-weight glove.

  • • Black Diamond Mercury Mitt
    • Men's Black Diamond Guide Glove
    • Women's Black Diamond Guide Glove
    • Men's Outdoor Research Alti II GTX Mitts

• Upper Body

  We recommend a minimum of five upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Two of these should be insulating layers, one light, and one medium, that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, softshell, down, and synthetic options.

• Guide Pick™

• • 
    LIGHT WEIGHT BASELAYER OR SUN HOODY

    Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top. Light weight, light-colored, hooded baselayers (sun hoodys) are highly recommended for sun protection.

  • • Men's Outdoor Reseach Echo Hoodie
    • Women's Patagonia Capilene Cool Daily Hoody
    • Men's Patagonia Capilene Midweight Zip
    • Women's Patagonia Capilene Midweight Zip-Neck

• • 
    LIGHT WEIGHT INSULATING LAYER

    One step up in warmth and bulk from a baselayer. A technical fleece makes an ideal light weight insulating layer.

  • • Men's Patagonia R1 Pullover Hoody
    • Women's Patagonia R1 Full-Zip Hoody
    • Men's Patagonia R1 Air FZ Hoody

• • 
    MEDIUM WEIGHT INSULATING LAYER

    A down, synthetic, or softshell hoody makes a great midlayer.

  • • Men's Arc'Teryx Atom LT Hoody
    • Women's Arc'teryx Atom Hoody
    • Men's Patagonia Micro Puff Hoody
    • Women's Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody

• • 
    HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATING LAYER

    A hooded down or synthetic jacket.

  • • Men's Bight Gear Swelter Jacket
    • Women's Bight Gear Swelter Jacket

• • 
    RAIN JACKET (HARD SHELL)

    An uninsulated, waterproof shell jacket with hood.

  • • Men's Black Diamond Helio Active Jacket
    • Women's Black Diamond Helio Active Jacket
    • Men's Arc'teryx Beta AR Jacket
    • Women's Arc'teryx Beta AR Jacket

• • 
    INSULATED PARKA WITH HOOD

    Your expedition-style heavy parka should extend below the waist and must have an insulated hood and be able to fit over the rest of your upper body layers. The parka is worn primarily in camp, at rest breaks, and on summit day when it is of crucial importance. We recommend down rather than synthetic fill.

  • • Mountain Hardwear Nilas Jacket
    • Women's Mountain Hardwear Phantom Parka

• • 
    SPORTS BRA

    We recommend a moisture-wicking, active-wear bra.

  • • Women's Patagonia Switchback Sports Bra

• Lower Body

  We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.

• Guide Pick™

• • 
    1 - 3 PAIR PAIRS OF UNDERWEAR

    Non-cotton briefs or boxers.

  • • Men's Patagonia Sender Boxer Brief
    • Men's Smartwool Merino 150 Boxer Brief
    • Women's Smartwool Seamless Bikini

• • 
    LIGHT WEIGHT BASELAYER

    Synthetic or wool.

  • • Men's Smartwool Classic All-Season Merino Base Layer Bottom
    • Women's Smartwool Classic All-Season Merino Base Layer Bottom
    • Men's Patagonia Capilene Midweight Bottoms

• • 
    SOFTSHELL CLIMBING PANTS

    Softshell climbing pants can be worn in combination with a base layer on colder days, or alone on warmer days.

  • • Men's Patagonia Altvia Alpine Pant
    • Women's Patagonia Altvia Alpine Pant
    • Men's Outdoor Research Cirque II Pant
    • Women's Outdoor Research Cirque II Pant

• • 
    RAIN PANTS (HARD SHELL)

    Non-insulated, waterproof shell pants must be able to fit comfortable over your baselayer bottoms and softshell climbing pants. Full side zippers or 7/8 side zippers are required so that shell pants can be put on while wearing boots and crampons.

  • • Men's Rab Kangri GORE-TEX Pants
    • Women's Rab Kangri GORE-TEX Pants
    • Men's Black Diamond Stormline Stretch FZ Rain Pants
    • Women's Stormline Stretch Full Zip Rain Pants

• • 
    DOWN OR SYNTHETIC INSULATED PANTS

    A pair of lightweight, insulated pants are ideal for extra warmth and comfort at camps, both on the glacier and on the trail.

  • • Men's Mountain Hardwear Compressor Pant

• Feet

• Guide Pick™

• • 
    DOUBLE MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS

    Insulated double boots designed for mountaineering. Plastic-shelled models are acceptable, though modern synthetic models are lighter and more comfortable.

  • • La Sportiva G2 EVO
    • Scarpa Phantom 6000 HD

• • 
    OVERBOOTS (OPTIONAL)

    Expedition overboots add significant warmth, especially at high altitude.

  • • Forty Below Purple Haze
    • Forty Below K2 Superlight

• • 
    BOOTIES (OPTIONAL)

    Goose down or synthetic fill. Nice option for evenings at camp.

  • • Forty Below Camp Booties

• • 
    CASUAL SHOES

    Great for traveling and wearing around town. A pair of tennis shoes or light hikers works well.

  • • Men's La Sportiva Wildcat
    • Women's La Sportiva Wildcat
    • Men's The North Face Base Camp Flip Flop
    • Women's The North Face Base Camp Mini Flip Flop

• • 
    GAITERS

    A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampon spikes on loose clothing. Not needed if using a boot with an integrated gaiter.

  • • Outdoor Research Expedition Crocodiles
    • Men's Rab Muztag GTX Gaiter
    • Women's Rab Muztag GTX Gaiter

• • 
    4 PAIR PAIRS OF SOCKS

    Either wool or synthetic. Whatever sock combination you are accustomed to wearing during your training or previous adventures (whether single medium weight socks, a medium weight with a liner sock, two medium weight socks together, etc.), should work just fine for this climb.

  • • Men's Smartwool Athlete Edition Mountaineer
    • Men's Smartwool Hike Light Crew Sock

• First Aid & Medications

• Guide Pick™

• • MEDICATIONS

    We recommend you speak with your physician about which medications you should have for high-altitude climbing. These medications are only used in emergency situations, and if someone is showing symptoms of HAPE or HACE, our standard protocol is for immediate descent. We do not take any of these medications prophylactically, and please talk with your guide before taking medications.

    We require each climber to have the following medications:

• • ACETAZOLAMIDE (DIAMOX)

    125mg tablets for the prevention or treatment of Acute Mountain Sickness. A normal prescription is 125mg tablets, twice a day. Recommend 10 - 12 tablets.

• • 
    SMALL PERSONAL FIRST AID KIT

    Our guides carry comprehensive medical kits, so keep yours small and light. We recommend a selection of adhesive bandages, antibiotic ointment, Moleskin and blister care, medical tape and/or duct tape, cough drops, basic painkillers, an antacid, an anti-diarrheal, and personal medications.

  • • Adventure Medical Kits Ultralight & Watertight 0.7

• Personal Items

• Guide Pick™

• • 
    MEALS & SNACKS

    See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.

• • 
    BOWL

    Packable plastic bowl. Collapsable models can work but must be handled carefully to avoid unintended collapsing. A lid is a great feature.

  • • Fozzils Solo Pack

• • 
    INSULATED MUG

    Insulated outdoor-style mug. We recommed a model with a removable lid, which helps retain heat and prevent spills. You may also choose to use 0.5L insulated bottle or a 0.5L nalgene.

  • • GSI Infinity Backpacker Mug

• • 
    SPOON OR SPORK

    A spoon or spork made of durable plastic or anodized metal. A long-handled spoon can be nice, especially if eating from a freeze-dried meal pouch.

  • • MSR Alpine Long Tool Spoon

• • 
    2 - 3 WATER BOTTLES

    One-liter water bottles with wide mouths made of co-polyester (BPA-free plastic).

  • • Nalgene

• • 
    2 - 3 INSULATED WATER BOTTLE COVERS

    These help prevent freezing. It should completely cover the bottle.

  • • Forty Below Bottle Boot

• • 
    STUFF SACK(S)

    Bring as needed.

  • • Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil Stuff Sack

• • 
    3 LARGE GARBAGE BAGS

    Heavy-duty trash compacter bags for use as waterproof pack/stuff sack liners. You can also use a a waterproof pack liner.

• • 
    READING MATERIAL/JOURNAL (OPTIONAL)
  • • Lou Whittaker: Memoirs of a Mountain Guide
    • Jim Whittaker: A Life on the Edge - Anniversary Edition

• • 
    PERSONAL TOILETRIES & BAG

    Include toilet paper, hand sanitizer, toothbrush and toothpaste, and wet wipes. Bring a quantity appropriate to the duration of your trip.

• • 
    TRAVEL SIZE HAND SANITIZER
  • • Travel Hand Sanitizer

• • 
    SUNSCREEN

    We recommend small tubes of SPF 30 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.

  • • Z Blok Sunscreen SPF 45

• • 
    LIP BALM

    We recommend SPF 15 or higher.

  • • Joshua Tree Lip Balm

• • TRAVEL SIZE MOISTURIZER

• • 
    INSECT REPELLENT (OPTIONAL)

    For Talkeetna.

  • • Ben's Tick Repellent

• • 
    EAR PLUGS

• • SLEEPING MASK

• • SPARE CONTACT LENSES/ EYEGLASSES (OPTIONAL)

    Spare prescription glasses if you wear contact lenses/eyeglasses.

• • 
    2 PAIRS CHEMICAL HAND WARMERS
  • • Ignik Hand Warmer

• • 
    PEE FUNNEL (FOR WOMEN)

    Practice using this before coming on the climb!

  • • Women's Freshette Funnel

• • PEE BOTTLE (OPTIONAL)

    One clearly-marked wide-mouth or collapsible bottle for overnight use.

  • • Metolius G-Whiz Pee Bottle

• • 
    CAMERA (OPTIONAL)

    Many smartphones have excellent cameras. Action cameras, small point-and-shoots, and compact dSLRs are lightweight and work well at altitude.

• • 
    POWER BANK (OPTIONAL)

    A small power bank, enough to charge a phone or e-reader several times.

  • • Goal Zero Flip 24 Power Bank

• Travel Clothes

• Guide Pick™

• • 
    TRAVEL CLOTHES

    We recommend bringing a selection of comfortable clothing to wear while traveling as well as pre- and post-trip.

• • SUNGLASSES

• Pre-Trip Checklist

• Guide Pick™

• • Purchase travel insurance.

• • Purchase airplane tickets.

• • Reserve rental equipment.

• • Be in the best shape of your life!

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Provided Equipment

RMI provides the following equipment for your program: tents, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, shovels, climbing ropes, climbing anchors, and avalanche probes.

Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a satellite phone for emergency contact.

Each member will have a sled for use during the program. Sleds aid in transporting loads between camps on the lower mountain.

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Meals

On the Expedition Skills Seminar - Ruth Glacier, you will need 9 mountain lunches. All of your mountain lunch items should weigh 7+ lb.

Breakfast and dinner meals on the mountain are included in your program cost. You are responsible for all meals while we are off the mountain.

MOUNTAIN LUNCHES

Mountain lunches are eaten during short breaks throughout the day. We continually snack to keep our energy levels up while we climb - lunch begins just after breakfast and ends just before dinner! Avoid packing any items that require preparation or hot water.

The importance of having foods that are genuinely enjoyed cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. To combat the loss of appetite at altitude, we aim to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, from sweet to sour to salty.

Recommended mountain lunch items: bagels, tortillas, crackers (Wheat Thins, Triscuits), hummus, Pringles, corn nuts, smoked almonds, roasted cashews, GORP mix (peanuts, M&M's, sunflowers seeds, raisins, etc.), smoked salmon, fresh veggies (carrots), salami, pepperoni, cheese (pepper jack, Swiss, cheddar), jerky, candy (sweet and sour varieties), chocolate bars, hard candies, energy bars (Cliff, Luna), dried fruits (apricots, pineapple, pear), and drink mixes (Gatorade/Kool-Aid).

Perishable food items may be purchased at a grocery store en-route to Talkeetna; you should have the bulk of lunch items already purchased and packed.

BREAKFAST

Breakfasts consist of fresh food (bagels, cream cheese), bacon and eggs, instant oatmeal, instant grits, cold cereal (granola), breakfast bars, and hot drinks.

DINNER

Nine days of group food are carried on the mountain, which can be stretched in the event of bad weather. Additionally, a cache of emergency food is left at Ruth Base Camp.

The dinner menu is a combination of fresh food (vegetables, tortillas, cheese), retort entrees (fully cooked meals packaged in sealed containers and heated in hot water), freeze-dried entrees (Mountain House or Alpine Air), and packaged main course items (ramen, Lipton Rice or Noodles, macaroni and cheese). Various hot drinks (tea and cocoa) and dessert are also provided.

Every attempt is made to assure a variety and adequate quantity.

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covid-19 procedures

We require that all climbers and guides have received the primary COVID-19 vacciantion series (1 or 2 doses depending on manufacturer) to join our programs. You will need to upload a copy of your COVID-19 Vaccination Card into your RMI Account before you can be confirmed on the program.

We also require climbers read, sign, and agree to RMI's COVID-19 Operating Procedures and complete two Health Screenings (one 14 days before your program date and one upon arrival) in order to participate in the program.

Payments

Deposit Payments: A non-refundable deposit payment of $1,250 per person secures your reservation.

• Deposit payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express*, e-check/ACH, check from a U.S. bank, or wire transfer**.
  • **Wire transfers must cover all fees charged by your bank. The amount of the incoming wire to our bank must equal the balance payment amount.

Balance Payments: The balance payment is due 120 days before the start of your program.

• Balance payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express*, e-check/ACH, check from a U.S. bank or wire transfer.**
  • **Wire transfers must cover all fees charged by your bank. The amount of the incoming wire to our bank must equal the balance payment amount.
• A payment reminder is emailed approximately three weeks before your payment due date. If your balance payment is not received 120 days before the start of your program, your reservation will be canceled, and all program fees forfeited.
• Payment in full is required when registering for a program within 120 days of the departure date.

*There is a 3% surcharge on all credit/debit card transactions. Credit/debit cards are not accepted for payments of $10,000 or more.

Cancellation

The $1,250 per person deposit is non-refundable.

• All cancellations require written notification. Once the RMI Office receives your written notification of cancellation, the following apply:
  • If you cancel 120 or more days before the start of your program, the $1,250 per person deposit will not be refunded.
  • If you cancel less than 120 days before the start of your program, no refunds will be issued.

Due to the time-sensitive nature of these programs, and the amount of preparation time required for this program, we strictly adhere to our policy and cannot make exceptions for any reason.

Cancellation Insurance

We require that everyone purchase travel insurance. Please see our Travel Tab for details.

Land Cost

INCLUDED

• RMI Leadership
• Ground transportation between Anchorage and Talkeetna
• Hotel accommodations in Talkeetna for one night at the start of the trip and one night at the end of the trip*
• Denali National Park Entrance Fee
• Breakfast and dinner while on the mountain
• Group equipment (tents, ropes, stoves, fuel, sleds, etc.)
• Bush pilot service between Talkeetna and Kahiltna Base Camp as stated in the itinerary

NOT INCLUDED

• Airfare to Anchorage International Airport (ANC)
• Hotel accommodations in Talkeetna not included above
• Travel Insurance
• Meals while not on the mountain
• Mountain lunches during the climb
• Customary guide gratuities
• Any expenses from COVID-19 or COVID-19 testing that causes delays or quarantine requirements such as additional lodging, food, transfers, delayed test results, etc.

* Accommodations are based on double occupancy.

Risk Management

Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. Managing risk is RMI’s number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering such as avalanches, ice fall, rockfall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them.

You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risk and hazards of mountaineering, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.

PARTICIPANT Responsibilities

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Each Participant is required to share in the responsibility of the safety and success of the team. For this reason, we ask that each Participant:

• Possess the climbing prerequisites required for this program.
• Possess the necessary physical and mental fitness required for this program.
• Be responsible for knowing all pre-departure information.
• Provide a signed Physician’s Certificate stating that the Participant is medically qualified to join this program.
• Update the RMI Office if there are any changes to your health or medical information before departure.
• Be properly attired and equipped as outlined in the Equipment List.
• Act in a considerate manner toward all team members and show respect for local customs, values, and traditions in the areas we travel.
• Show respect for the environment and follow appropriate Leave No Trace practices.
• Describe yourself, honestly and accurately, in terms of fitness, health, skills, abilities, and your equipment to your guide staff.
• Communicate with your guide staff on the mountain if there are any changes in your medications or health.
• Adhere to the advice of your guide staff.
• Continue to self-assess throughout the program, measuring your fitness, health, skills, and abilities against the demands required of the program.

RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a program or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if the RMI Guide Staff determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for or capable of participating in the program or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health or well-being of the Participant or the entire group. If this decision is made, the Participant will not receive any refunds or credits and will be financially responsible for any additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to, evacuation, transportation, hotels, meals, etc.

Zero Tolerance Harassment Policy

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) does not tolerate harassment or mistreatment of our participants or employees. Inappropriate conduct under this policy may include conduct that creates a disrespectful, intimidating, hostile, degrading, humiliating, or offensive environment for a participant or employee. Engaging in such conduct is a violation of this policy.

RMI may consider conduct to be in violation of the policy even if it falls short of unlawful harassment under applicable law. When determining whether conduct violates this policy, we will consider whether a reasonable person could conclude that the conduct created an intimidating, hostile, degrading, or demeaning environment.

Violation of this policy may result in removal from a program, as well as refusal to provide services indefinitely. We place the utmost value on the safety of our participants and employees. Please report any incidents to RMI management.

Age-Appropriate Guidelines & Restrictions

In the interest of the safety and well-being of all participants, RMI adheres to the following age-appropriate guidelines:

• Ages 15 & under: No participants age 15 & under
• Ages 16 & 17: Accompanied by a parent or legal guardian for the duration of the program
• Ages 18 & above: No restrictions 

An individual’s birthday must precede the departure date of the program. For example, a 15-year-old who turns 16 on July 1 may participate on a program beginning July 2.

Under-aged participants on Private Climb or Group Climb programs are assessed on an individual basis.

A parent or legal guardian must accompany the minor climber throughout the entirety of the program. If either climber must descend at any time during the program, both climbers must descend together.

A parent or legal guardian must sign for any Participant that is under 18 years of age. On behalf of any minor participant, the parent or legal guardian understands and accepts all the terms of the Program Policies.

Summit Attempt

RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire group may have to turnaround without reaching the summit.

Failure to reach the summit due to a person’s own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route conditions, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.’s responsibility and will not result in a refund, credit, or reschedule.

General Policies

RMI’s program schedule and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, group strength, terrain, or other environmental factors, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including but not limited to increases in program fees, changes to program schedule or itinerary, and changes to guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program. Once the program has started, the Lead Guide will decide on any changes to the itinerary, including ending the program early if the continuation of the program may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the group.

We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather, route conditions, or for any other reason. In such a case, we will make every effort to reschedule the Participant on a different program date. If rescheduling is not possible, we will issue you a refund for all program fees paid to RMI, less any non-refundable payments that have been paid on your behalf to secure any of the land costs, operational expenses, or services required for this program, including but not limited to hotel accommodations, transportation and transfers, tours, group food, permits, local outfitter services, and insurance premiums prior to the cancellation of the program. Additionally, RMI cannot be responsible for any non-refundable expenses the Participant incurred in preparation for the program (i.e., airline tickets, hotel reservations, rental cars, equipment purchases or rentals, etc.).

Once a program begins, there are no refunds or credits for weather-related cancellations or for programs that may end early due to weather, route conditions, or any other circumstances that may compromise the health, safety, or well-being of the group. Furthermore, if the Participant decides for any reason not to begin a program or to discontinue a program at any time, no refunds or credits will be issued. The Participant will be responsible for all additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to evacuation, transportation, hotel reservations, meals, etc.

The Participant is responsible for any costs incurred due to COVID-19, including but not limited to, any testing fees or costs associated with medical care and/or quarantine such as hotel accommodations, meals, separate transportation, etc.

Land Costs are provided as a package, and refunds or credits will not be issued for any unused meals, accommodations, group transportation, or other unused costs. Accommodations are based on double occupancy. A Single Supplement Fee will be charged to those Participants occupying single accommodations either by choice or circumstance. If you are willing to share a room, we will make every effort to pair you with another same-gender team member. We will match willing same-gender team members based on the order of registration date. If we are unable to match you with another same-gender team member, a single supplement fee will be charged. The availability of single accommodations is limited in most of the hotels where we stay, and single accommodations are not available while in the mountains.

The Participant understands and agrees that RMI assumes no responsibility or liability in connection with any travel and hospitality services provided to the Participant by other companies in connection with the program, including but not limited to the services provided by airlines, hotels, rental cars, and transportation companies. In addition, RMI is not responsible for any act, error, omission, or any injury, loss, accident, delay, irregularity, or danger by a supplier of travel or hospitality services to the Participant in connection with the RMI program. The Participant will be responsible for all costs associated with any travel delays, missed connections, or missing baggage that requires additional arrangements (separate transportation, hotel accommodations, meals, etc.) to be made on your behalf for you or your baggage to rejoin the program.