Entries By raymond holt

Friday, May 23, 2025 11:08 pm PDT

Happy Friday Everyone!

To our family and friends back at home, I’m excited to share that we have made it to Camp 3—14,200’—a huge milestone in our journey! This is where we will call home for the next week or so while we acclimatize and hit the fixed lines around 17,000’ to prepare for summit attempts.

Today we woke up to a cool, crisp, bluebird sky, and that meant one thing: we were packing up Camp 2 and headed to Camp 3. After a quick breakfast, we packed up our camp, stuffed our packs to the breaking point, and loaded a couple of sleds with all our gear and food.

It was time to trade in our snowshoes and put on our crampons. That’s right—it was time to go climbing, finally! As we headed out with an ice axe in one hand and a trekking pole in the other, we stared up at Motorcycle Hill. It was time to go to work.

We had a 35-degree pitch with roughly 1,000’ of gain. From there, we made our way to Squirrel Hill—another 30-degree pitch—then up to the Polo Fields, where we finally got a bit of flatter terrain. The views are like no other and bring grace to the grind.

Then it was up and around Windy Corner, which didn’t disappoint, greeting us with some lovely wind :). We continued to embrace the day as we made our last push into Camp 3. We are home! Our biggest push in one day with 3,000’ of vertical gain.

As I sit here and write this—and I know the team feels the same—with a sunburnt face, a back that feels like it carried an elephant, and feet that feel like they ran an ultramarathon, I couldn’t be more grateful and proud of this team and all we’ve accomplished over the past six days. Getting to Camp 3 took everything we’ve got—congrats, team!

To our guides: every day you continue to inspire us, nail the weather reports, and keep us moving upward. Thank you for all your efforts!

That’s all for now—time for dinner (bacon mac and cheese!) and some much-needed rest days. Onward and upward this team goes! Keep sending the positive vibes and prayers our way—they’re working!

- Will

The hottest new restaurant in Alaska is Maureen’s, currently located at the 11K camp on Denali. Started by a trio of up-and-coming chefs (Jackson, Ray, and Seth), who also happen to moonlight as mountain guides, Maureen’s serves up delicious Tex-Mex fare with Asian and Creole inspirations, reflective of the chefs’ diverse backgrounds. “Corn is pretty much my greatest inspiration; I can turn a tortilla into just about anything,” says Chef Jackson, citing his Iowan roots. The pop-up restaurant is small, seating 9 and squatting 1.

On a busy night of service, guests can hear Chef “Sweet Baby” Ray rapping to OutKast with an inexplicably thick Eastern European accent while whipping up a jambalaya in the open kitchen. The portions are generous, much appreciated on big efforts such as caching heavy packs of gear up to 13K ft.

When not working the breakfast shift, Chef Seth runs front of house, chatting up the regulars and offering sweet words of affirmation, which they desperately need to wake up each morning. There is relatively little to complain about, except maybe the limited beverage list (despite the chefs’ weird insistence on tasting the glacial terroir — it’s just hot water), the overpowering red polyester decor (reportedly Maureen’s favorite color), and the ever-present undertones of body odor. Dress code is casual, although insulated down is highly recommended. Gluten-free options are available upon request.

– Jason

Wednesday, May 21, 2025 - 10:59 pm PT

Sunshine!

It was great to see the sun today. After a leisurely breakfast we got our one main task done for the day, going to pick up our cache at 10,200ft. Despite some annoyingly cold wind and deep trail breaking, we got this done in a short three hours.  The rest of the day was spent relaxing and resting up. Tomorrow we hope to climb higher, putting in a cache just above Windy Corner around 13,500'.

RMI Guide Seth Burns

Tuesday, May 20, 2025 - 9:52 pm PT 

Dear Baby Winter,

Just like in the book that we read before coming out here, “Oh the Places, You’ll Go,” today our group walked through an area that I can’t wait to tell you all about. We started this morning not entirely sure if we were going to continue up today due to the weather being a little iffy but Seth made the call for us to venture out with the goal of reaching 11,000' Camp. The walk up was incredibly challenging, the combination of wind and snow with weighted packs and sleds, made this climb like nothing I’ve ever done. The weather created what seemed to be a complete white out, like walking through a cloud. With only being able to differentiate by looking around at my fellow climbers. Thinking of you and your mother pushed me forward and most importantly our excellent guides kept us safe while out there. Each day that I’m here, Denali continues to teach me something that I hope to one day hand down to you and that’s that sometimes the most rewarding moments in life, are the ones that you’ve earned through working for them. Now it’s time for a hot meal, we’re having ramen tonight, cant wait! I miss you more than words will allow.

Love Dad (Juan)

Tuesday, May 20, 2025 - 12:31 pm PDT

Well, we woke up this morning to much better weather. Headed over to the cook tent for a quick bowl or two of Cinnamon Toast Crunch and coffee.  Breakfast of champions! We got our sleds and packs ready to set off for our first cache of the expedition. Everybody was anxious to get going after a great rest day.  Many other teams had the same idea, and we certainly didn’t mind a few of them in front of us breaking trail after we got about a foot of snow at camp in the last 24hrs.  All three teams were moving great up the mountain led by our fearless leaders Seth, Jackson and Ray.  They rock!  We had three breaks on the way up and as we moved up the mountain, clouds and a wisp of wind and snow started to move in. We reached 10,200' and cached our gear and food.  Super nice being able to walk downhill with a light pack and no sled! We made our way quickly downhill passing teams as we did on the way up. We are now snug back at our lower camp waiting for what we know will be an amazing dinner of jambalaya. Being originally from Louisiana and all…no pressure on Chef Ray.  Ha!

Our team is really firing on all cylinders and feeling good. Happy for that!  Hydrating, fixing feet and getting some rest are on the agenda after dinner. Oh, and the skies parted on the way back a bit giving us spectacular views when we arrived back at camp, so grateful to be in this moment.

RMI Climber Shannon and Team

Sunday, May 18, 2025 - 9:57 pm PT

After the late night we enjoyed sleeping in a bit to wait out the storm. We woke up to the rhythmic sound of snow on the side of the tent. We had a lovely breakfast of bagels with lox and warm drinks before going back to the shelter of our warm tents. About a foot of snow fell overnight and into the early afternoon. Life on the glacier is peaceful. Reading, playing cards, and sharing stories made the time go by pleasantly. We organized our resources and are hoping to carry tomorrow. Just before dinner the visibility improved and we were able to watch the birds rejoice in the break in the weather. Dinner was accompanied by stupid jokes and cheerful laughter. Today was a great day, the team is in good spirits.

Peace, Love, and Gratitude,
RMI Guides Seth, Jackson, Ray, and Team

Sunday, May 18, 2025 - 1:53 am PT

We woke up this morning with the feeling that we would fly today and in the end we were right.  A little after noon we got the call we had been waiting for.  And quickly got into our boots. After a circuitous and beautiful flight we landed on the Kahitna Glacier. Despite the later hour, with good weather and high stoke, we quickly left base camp and made our way to Ski Hill.  The team is very happy to be on the mountain and making our way up.

RMI Guide Seth Burns and team

Saturday May 17, 2025 2:07 pm PDT

Seth Burns and Team checked in from Talkeetna, they are loaded and Flying onto the Kahiltna Glacier. 

Let the climbing begin! 

Friday, May 16, 2025 - 10:19 pm PDT

We started our day with breakfast at latitude 62 and ended our day with dinner at latitude 62. Can anyone guess where our day will start tomorrow?!

We spent the morning talking about the finer points of Denali climbing while learning and practicing some new skills. In the afternoon, our pilots at K2 along with the Denali base camp manager saw a break in the weather. Giddy with excitement, we loaded up the plane with all of our bags, put on our mountain clothes, and patiently waited for our chance for take off. Unfortunately, mountain weather can be a fickle beast and the mountain wasn't ready to let us in just yet. We became mesmerized by some classic Denali climbing films and fantasized about when we would soon be in those very spots. 

Waiting is inevitable in the mountains, but always hard, especially at the beginning of a trip. I could not be more proud of our team's attitude. They are taking everything in stride and with a smile. We are enjoying constant laughs, telling stories, and building camaraderie that will enable us to run when our feet hit the ground. We will be ready to fly when our time comes. Hopefully that time is tomorrow morning! 

RMI Guides Jackson, Ray, Seth and Team

Thursday, May 15, 2025 - 9:00 PM PDT

Well, we did not fly today. The clouds around Talkeetna and especially on the Kahiltna kept the planes on the ground. While this is not exactly what we wanted it is not unusual. Our friends at K2 aviation run a professional outfit and do everything they can to get us safely on and off the mountain.  While they kept their eyes on the weather, we spent the day enjoying coffee, going over rope skills, eating plenty of food, and even going on a nice run.

If you're reading this, send us clear sky vibes. 

RMI Guides Seth, Jackson, Ray, and Team