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Mongolia: Mt. Khuiten

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  • Show Trip Info

    Price
    $6700
    Deposit
    $1500
    Duration
    16 days
    Difficulty
    Level 3
    Type
    Mountaineering
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Mongolia: Mt. Khuiten

Mongolia: Mt. Khuiten

Climb several moderately challenging peaks in Altai Tavan Bogd (Five Saints) National Park and experience the endless steppes, crystal clear rivers, and distinctive culture that make Mongolia a destination unlike anywhere else.

expedition highlights

  • Accessible altitudes of the Tavan Bogd massif are the perfect introduction to Himalayan-style climbing.
  • Venture to western Mongolia, one of the least explored corners of the world, and soak in the unparalleled views.
  • Benefit from first class service including camp cooks, porters, camels, and jeep service to keep packs light and the climbing enjoyable.
  • Enjoy our 3 to 1 climber to guide ratio and benefit from the experience, expertise, and tutelage of RMI's renowned guides.

{{SLIDESHOW}}

Our trip begins in the capital city of UlaanBaatar, where we will witness the unforgettable juxtaposition of modern mining wealth and traditional nomadic lifestyles. Ger camps (yurts) still hold their own within a stone's throw of glass clad skyscrapers. From the Choijin Lama temple to the National Museum of Mongolia, we spend time exploring the city and learning about Mongolian history and culture.

We then fly west to the town of Olgii on the western border of Mongolia. Once in Olgii we make the six-hour drive west to the entrance of Altai Tavan Bogd National Park. On our drive we will pass traditional gers (yurts) while enjoying the seemingly limitless views of the western Mongolia countryside.

Reminiscent of the Himalaya, the Altai Mountains offer incredible adventure and beauty at a lower altitude.

Our expedition into the Altai Mountains begins with a trek to Potaniin Base Camp. Potaniin Base Camp is the starting point for our first objective, Malchin Peak (13,287’). With Malchin Peak under our belts we move to High Camp and make our summit attempts of Mount Khuiten (14,350’), the highest peak in Mongolia, and Nairamdal Peak (13,714’).

Trekking out of Altai Tavan Bogd National Park is just as memorable as the trek in as we follow the White River through the Tsagaan Gol Valley. A night in Olgii after our climb allows us to experience the Kazakh culture of western Mongolia.

THE RMI DIFFERENCE

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. was established in 1969 and is one of America's oldest and most-trusted guide services. We are the largest guide service on Mt. Rainier and Denali and leaders in guiding climbs and treks around the globe. Our years of leading mountain adventures give us the experience and knowledge to lead the best possible trips. We work hard to live up to our reputation as an industry leader. Our trip preparation before departure takes care of the details for you, from hotels to airport transfers, so that you can focus on preparing for the climb instead of the distraction that comes with coordinating logistics.

Our Mongolia: Mt. Khuiten climbs are led by RMI’s foremost U.S. guides, who bring years of climbing experience on not only Kilimanjaro but on mountains all over the world, from the Andes to the Alaska Range to the Himalayas. As you reach higher elevations and test the limits of your experience, the value of an accomplished, highly trained RMI Guide held to our standards and who can effectively communicate with you cannot be understated.

We use RMI's own climbing equipment brought from the U.S., ensuring that our expedition standards of safety, quality, and reliability are met. Our exceptional focus on detail, our unparalleled level of climber attention, and our genuine excitement for these adventures are what make our programs truly memorable.

safety

Safety has always been RMI's top priority and we strive to create the safest mountain experience possible. RMI's experienced team of guides focus on leading a fun and successful climb without compromising safety. We apply the same strict standards of safety we bring to Alaska and the Himalayas to our climbs in Mongolia. Careful planning, precise ascent profiles, daily weather forecasts, and diligent attention are taken as we venture to high altitudes. Our guides are trained, experienced, and certified by rigorous American standards in wilderness and high altitude medicine, avalanche training, and leave no trace techniques. We have spent considerable time in the mountains and know how to do so safely and comfortably; we don’t rush to the top but instead focus on using techniques that allow us to adjust and even excel in the thin air.  Comprehensive medical kits, rescue equipment, and radio and satellite communication equipment are carried with the team throughout the climb.

As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.

  • Upcoming Climbs

      • July 12, 2019 Guide: Eric Frank
    Show All
  • Price
    $6700
    Deposit
    $1500
    Duration
    16 days
    Difficulty
    Level 3
    Type
    Mountaineering
Table of Contents
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Day 1

TRAVEL DAY

Depart US for UlaanBaatar, Mongolia (ULN). During your flight you will cross the International Date Line and travel time is approximately 18 - 28 hours.

*If your flight/connections take more than 36 hours, you will need to book your trip to depart the US one day earlier.



Day 2

ULAANBAATAR • 4,429' | 1,350M

Most flights arrive in UlaanBaatar (ULN) in the late evening. Upon your arrival, a taxi ride takes you to our hotel. Overnight in UlaanBaatar.



Day 3

ULAANBAATAR • 4,429' | 1,350M

We spend the day exploring UlaanBaatar with a local tour guide. We visit Sukhbaatar Square, Chingiss Khan monuments, National Museum and Russian Friendship Monument. Perhaps nothing signifies Mongolian culture quite as much as the Naadam festival. Occurring every summer, this festival highlights the three main Mongolian sports- wrestling, horse racing and archery. We have timed our trip specifically to be there in order to take in the activities, and will have a mini Naadam organized so we can witness the action up close. Overnight in UlaanBaatar. (B, D)

Exploring UlaanBaatar, Mongolia



Day 4

OLGII • 5,610' | 1,710M

Early in the morning we fly from the capital city to the western outpost of Olgii. After collecting our baggage and eating a quick lunch we will make the six-hour drive toward the entrance to Altai Tavan Bogd National Park and our camp in the Oigar River valley. Along the way we will pass nomads living in their traditional gers (yurts); deep valleys full of sheep, horses, and yaks; and unbroken steppes that stretch all the way from the Gobi Desert. Overnight in tents. (B, L, D)

En Route to Altai Tavan Bogd National Park



Day 5

ALTAI TAVAN BOGD NATIONAL PARK

Today we trek to Potaniin Base Camp. Our gear will be carried by Bactrian (two hump) camels and we will carry daypacks as we traverse the ten miles of tundra and rock-strewn streams to Base Camp. We pause about an hour from camp to take in the unrivaled views of the Altai mountain range. Overnight in tents. (B, L, D)

Altai Tavan Bogd National Park



Day 6

POTANIIN BASE CAMP

We spend the day at Base Camp getting settled. We take advantage of the beautiful scenery by exploring the surrounding hills and moraine. Overnight in tents. (B, L, D)

Potaniin Base Camp



Day 7

SUMMIT DAY MALCHIN PEAK (13,287')

We stretch our legs by climbing Malchin Peak, a non-glaciated ascent. From Base Camp we follow the lateral moraine of the Potaniin Glacier for approximately two hours before veering east to climb 2,500’ up the rock and scree of Malchin. From the summit we enjoy views of the Tavan Bogd massif and Russia. We descend to Base Camp for the night. Overnight in tents. (B, L, D)

On the Potaniin Glacier



Day 8

POTANIIN HIGH CAMP • 9,600' | 2,926M

Today we ascend to Potaniin High Camp. As we did yesterday, we follow the lateral moraine of the Potaniin Glacier before climbing over the moraine and onto the glacier. The lower flow of the glacier is a latex and icy, as we make our way up the glacier we move into heavily crevassed and often snow-covered terrain. We make camp on a high plateau below Mt. Khüiten. Overnight in tents. (B, L, D)



Day 9

SUMMIT DAY MT. KHUITEN (14,350') • 9,600' | 2,926M

An early morning launch will take us from our camp and give us access to the 3,000’ climb of the North Ridge of Khuiten. We climb in a variety of terrains from moderate to steep, and back to moderate. By the time we reach the summit of Mt. Khuiten we will be standing near the intersection of three countries: Mongolia, Russia and China. We return to Potaniin High Camp. Overnight in tents. (B, L, D)

Summit of Mt. Khuiten



Day 10

SUMMIT DAY NAIRAMDAL PEAK (13,714')

Today we have the option to climb Nairamdal Peak. Located on the Mongolian-Russian border, Nairamdal Peak is also known as Friendship Peak. We return to Base Camp. Overnight in tents. (B, L, D)



Day 11

WEATHER DAY

This extra day is scheduled into the itinerary in case we encounter poor weather or need additional time for acclimatization.



Day 12

TSAGAAN GOL VALLEY

We depart Base Camp on horseback past the large bluish-white lake at the terminal moraine of the Potaniin Glacier. We continue following the turbulent silt and glacial melt filled White River through the Tsagaan Gol Valley. Overnight in tents. (B, L, D)

White River near Tsagaan Gol Valley



Day 13

OLGII • 5,610' | 1,710M

After waking in beautiful surroundings, we load into our transport vehicles and make the journey back to Olgii. We stop for lunch and at scenic overlooks allowing us to continue taking in the beauty of western Mongolia. Overnight in hotel. (B, L, D)

Olgii, Mongolia



Day 14

ULAANBAATAR • 4,429' | 1,350M

We depart Olgii and return to UlaanBaatar on a morning flight. The afternoon is free to explore the city. There are several outlets of world-famous Mongolian cashmere within an easy cab ride of the hotel. Overnight in UlaanBaatar. (B, L, D)

Sukhbaatar Square in UlaanBaatar, Mongolia



Day 15

TRAVEL

Return flights from UlaanBaatar to the US. (B)



Day 16

TRAVEL

Continued flights and arrival to US.

 

 

Key: B, L, D = Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner included.



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Travel Consultant

CTT Destinations Travel Coordinator Pirjo DeHart has served climbers and adventurers for over 25 years. Specializing in small corporate and adventure travel, she works to assure your trip is stress free by taking care of the practical travel details and evaluating travel insurance. Each trip is handled with the utmost attention to detail so that you may focus on your adventure. You can contact Pirjo by phone at (425) 831-0367 or email: rmiexpeditions@cttdestinations.com.

Travel Insurance

Travel insurance is required for this trip. Depending on the type of policy purchased you can protect against trip cancellation, interruption, delay, baggage loss or delay, medical expenses, medical evacuation, security and more. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection in the event of a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or while traveling. You can purchase travel insurance at any time prior to the trip departure. Should you need to cancel from a program, Trip Insurance will refund you for any non-refundable cancellations fees when cancelling for a covered reason.

There are several things to note when purchasing trip insurance:

  • Cancellation Insurance is included in the standard Trip Insurance policy if you are injured, or have a medical or family emergency prior to or while traveling. Should you need to cancel your program, Trip Insurance will refund you for any non-refundable cancellations fees when cancelling for a covered reason. Most travel insurance companies provide an option to include coverage that allows you to “Cancel for Any Reason”, but the initial policy must be purchased within 14 days of placing your deposit for the program.
  • In order to cover your trip with RMI Expeditions you may need to include options such as an “Adventure or Sports” upgrade. Not all travel insurance will cover mountaineering, climbing, skiing or trekking adventures. Some will not cover due to gear used (crampons, ice axe), others will not cover above a certain elevation and/or region of the world. Check your policy carefully to make sure your activity is covered. Both companies listed below offer policies that are geared toward adventure travel.
  • Purchasing Travel insurance is also dependent on your state of residence. If one company doesn’t offer coverage for you because you live in Washington, another company might.

 

RipcordRipcord Rescue Travel Insurance is travel insurance designed for adventurers, including the best evacuation and rescue services available.

Benefits are tailored for adventurers and include:

  • Rescue and evacuation from the point of illness or emergency to your home hospital of choice.
  • Trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, sporting goods, baggage loss, emergency dental, Accidental Death & Dismemberment (AD&D) and more.
  • Completely integrated one-stop program with a single contact for emergency services to travel assistance and insurance claims.
  • 24/7 access to paramedics, nurses and military veterans.
  • Security extraction in case of unexpected dangerous and chaotic events.
  • Cancel For Any Reason (CFAR) options and pre-existing condition waiver within 14 days of your initial trip deposit.

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance is powered by Redpoint Resolutions, a medical and travel security risk company. Their team is comprised of special operations veterans, paramedics, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, former intelligence officers, insurance actuaries and global security experts with dozens of years of experience in theaters around the world. The Redpoint network covers the globe, making them uniquely equipped to provide elite rescue travel insurance – in every sense of the word. Whether it’s reimbursing you for a cancelled trip, paying your travel medical bills or evacuating you home in an emergency, Ripcord takes the worry out of your travel.

TripAssureTripAssure, a Trip Mate brand, has created the Assure Adventure Plans to cover travelers participating in climbing, skiing, mountaineering and trekking programs.

TripAssure's Adventure Plan and Adventure Plus Plan differ only in the coverage option which allows you to Cancel for Any Reason. In order to receive Cancel for Any Reason coverage you must purchase the Adventure Plan Plus within 14 days of paying your deposit or payment with RMI. We recommend that you carefully read the Plan Document that applies to your purchase.

Travel Advisories / Warnings

Please confirm any current travel advisories/warnings as well as passport and visa requirements with the US Department of State.

Getting There

Travel to Mongolia's Chinggis Khan International Airport (ULN) typically takes 18 - 28 hours from the U.S. depending on your departure city, available connections, and flight times. Flights generally arrive in the evening of Day 2 of the itinerary.

Flights departing UlaanBaatar (ULN) may be booked for any time on Day 15 of the program.

Entry Requirements

A valid passport is required when traveling to Mongolia. Your passport must be valid for 6 months beyond the expected return date.

We suggest making a copy of the first two pages of your passport and keeping them in a separate bag as a backup. A copy should also be left with your emergency contact.

Airport Arrival

Proceed to Baggage Claim and then to Customs. There will be a random selection of bags for inspection. Be sure to keep all your bags together.

A transfer will be arranged for you from the airport to our hotel.

In-Country Transportation

The provided transportation in Mongolia as stated in the itinerary is via private vehicle.

Immunizations & Travel Medicine

For the most current information on inoculation requirements and recommendations, please refer to the Center for Disease Control and Prevention.

Traveler's Health

Travelers often suffer from upset stomachs when in foreign countries. There are some basic rules, however, that can help keep you healthy.

  • Hygiene - It is important that you wash your hands thoroughly before meals and after using any bathroom. If water is not available for washing, we recommend using a hand sanitizer.
  • Water - The number one rule is: don't drink the water, and that includes shower water and ice! Brush your teeth with purified water rather than tap water. You should check bottled water for a good seal and use a napkin to wipe dry excess moisture in drinking glasses. Take care with fruit juice, particularly if it has been diluted with water. Carefully clean the tops of bottled beverages before opening.
  • Food - If you can cook it, boil it, or peel it; you can usually eat it. Salads and fruits should be washed with purified water or peeled where possible. Be wary of ice cream and shellfish. Always avoid any undercooked meat.

Medical EmeRgencies

The Altai Mountains are in a remote region of Mongolia without easy access to definitive medical care. We are our own rescue team.

The medical facilities in UlaanBaatar and other urban areas in Mongolia are limited except for routine, non-emergency needs. We will work with our tour operator to access an appropriate level of care should the need arise.

Mongolia Country Facts

Mongolia is the second-largest landlocked country in the world (behind Kazakhstan) and shares borders with China and Russia. Mongolia has the lowest population density of all independent countries, with just over 3 million residents. Approximately 45% of the country's population lives in the capital city of UlaanBaatar. The dominant religion is Buddhism with about 75% of Mongolians; the remaining 25% comprises Shamanic, nones, Christians, and Muslims.

Recorded Mongolian history dates back to the third century BCE with the Hunnu ("People of the Sun" or the Huns). The Great Mongol Empire formed under Chinggis Khan (Genghis Khan) in 1206. The Mongolian Empire spread to eastern Europe and to all of China and Central Asia. After the collapse of the Mongolian Empire, Mongolia came under Chinese rule.

Mongolia reemerged as an independent nation in 1924. China did not recognize their independence until 1945 as a result of needing Soviet Union assistance to fight the Japanese invasion. This led to a split of the historic Mongolian nation - Outer Mongolia became independent while Inner Mongolia is a province of China. Mongolia enjoys a close relationship with modern day Russia as a result of their influence in recognizing Mongolia's independence.

The largest cultural festival in Mongolia is the Naadam festival; this national holiday occurs each July. During Naadam once can witness the three main sporting events in Mongolia - wrestling, horse racing, and archery. While UlaanBaatar holds the main Naadam festival, small Naadam festivals take place throughout the country during July. In Western Mongolia, Olgii is home to the Golden Eagle Festival each October. This is the largest gathering of eagle hunters in the world. Olgii also hosts Nauryz Festival, or Kazakh New Year on the 22nd of March.

Weather

Known as the "Lan of Blue Skies," Mongolia boasts approximately 250 days of sun each year. Peak climbing season corresponds with peak tourist season, June - August. At this time of year, you can expect warm, mostly dry weather with some thunderstorms. The shoulder seasons of May and September see unpredictable weather. Winters in Mongolia are known for being exceptionally cold.

While there can be no guarantees of perfect weather in the mountains, our expeditions take full advantage of both the weather and route conditions for this expedition, and utilize prime months for optimal climbing experiences.

Cultural Etiquette

Although it is not expected that we dress formally, we should dress modestly. Casual and comfortable clothing and shoes are suggested. Avoid holes in clothing, especially socks, as they are considered to bring bad luck.

Refusing a gift, including food, is considered rude - if offered food take a small bite of something. Always receive items with the right hand, palm facing up. When drinking, hold the cup by the bottom instead of the top rim. Use your right hand to take food or drinks.

Pointing with your index finger is a sign of disrespect, try an open palm instead. Avoid leaning against doorframes or other support columns.

Should you accidently bump feet with someone or step on someone's foot, promptly shake their hand. Failing to shake their hand is considered an insult in this situation.

Mongolians have a calm demeanor and rarely use anger as a means to accomplish something. Calm and composed is the best approach.

Haggling for prices is frowned upon; he stated price is the price you are expected to pay.

Electricity

Electricity in Mongolia is different than in the United States. Mongolia uses type C and E sockets and plugs. Type C is the standard "Euro" plug and works with plugs E and F. Type E works with plugs C and F if it has an additional pinholes. In Mongolia, the standard voltage is 220V and the frequency is 50 Hz. U.S. appliances will require plug adaptors, convertors or transformers. Remember to bring any necessary adaptors if you plan to recharge electronics.

Money

The current currency of Mongolia is the Togrog (T), also known as tugrik. In Mongolia you are almost always required to pay for goods or services with the Togrog. It is recommended that you change only as much money as you think you may spend as local currencies cannot be removed from the country or easily converted. Check a financial newspaper or www.xe.com for the current exchange rate prior to departure.

We suggest bringing $600-$900 total for personal spending money including restaurant meals, drinks, pocket money, and the Support Staff Tip Pool.

ATMs are widely available, although few accept debit cards with microchips. Credit cards are widely accepted across the country - even in small grocery stores and shops.

Everyone has a preferred way to carry money. Some use money belts, others have hidden pockets. Whatever you do, be aware of pickpockets in any area which caters to tourists.

Tipping

Everyone approaches tipping a little differently. Whether or not a person tips, and how much, is completely dependent upon the individual; here are some suggested tipping guidelines for your trip.

While traditionally Mongolians don't tip, tipping is accepted in tourism related fields - guides, drivers, restaurants, bellhops, etc. Ten to 20 percent is standard in these situations.

Support Staff Tip Pool: We recommend that each climber contribute $40 to the Tip Pool. This is collected at the beginning of the trip and will cover group tips for all our support and mountain staff throughout the program.

Our guides work hard to ensure your well-being and success on the mountain. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment. Tips for excellent service normally average 10 – 15% of the cost of the program. If you would rather not bring the guide gratuity with you on the trip, you can send a check or call the RMI office to pay with a credit card upon your return.

Resources

https://wikitravel.org/en/Mongolia and https://www.lonelyplanet.com/mongolia offer a wealth of information.

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Qualifications

This trip is open to all individuals in excellent physical condition. Prior knowledge of, and comfort with, rope travel, the use of crampons, and ice axe arrest is recommended.

Our experience shows that individuals perform better and enjoy the adventure more if they have a high degree of fitness and comfort with basic mountaineering skills. This program’s remote nature and snowy terrain contribute to make this a very worthwhile challenge.

Qualifying Programs

Recommended climbing experiences prior to Mongolia: Mt. Khuiten include:

  • Get In The Best Shape Of Your Life
    And Then Go
    Climb A Mountain

    Create A Fitness And Training Program

    Go To Fitness Resources

Physical fitness training 

Mountaineering requires a high degree of physical stamina and mental toughness. Even for the healthiest and fittest individuals, this qualifies as an extremely challenging endeavor.

  • Start immediately. Start a rigorous fitness and training program now with the goal of arriving in top physical condition and confident in your skills.
  • Be intentional. Focus on gaining the necessary strength, stamina and skills to meet the physical demands of the trek.
  • Be sport-specific. The best fitness and training program mimics the physical and technical demands of your trekking objective. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble the climbing.

For the Mongolia: Mt. Khuiten, you are preparing for:

  • Hiking and climbing with a 25 - 30 lb. load
  • A 10 + hour summit day
  • Mountaineering techniques requiring core strength and flexibility to navigate uneven terrain

Nothing ensures a personally successful adventure like your level of fitness and training. Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life and ready for a very challenging adventure!

Please refer to our Resources for Mountaineering Fitness and Training for detailed fitness and training information. 

Acclimatization

The key to climbing high is proper acclimatization. Our program follows a calculated ascent profile which allows time for your body to adjust to the altitude.

Excellent physical conditioning significantly increases your ability to acclimatize as you ascend. Climbers in excellent physical condition simply have more energy to commit to the acclimatization process throughout the days and nights of the ascent, allowing their bodies to adjust to the altitude more easily.

Finally, physical performance and acclimatization are also related to how well you have taken care of yourself throughout the hours, days and weeks prior to summit day. Arriving healthy and well-rested, maintaining proper hydration and caloric intake, and protecting against unnecessary heat loss (staying warm) are all key factors in an individual's success on an expedition such as this.

 

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What You’ll Need

A list of required personal equipment accompanies every RMI program, and the thought process behind each item is much greater than simply “preparing for the worst and hoping for the best.” The list for your program takes into account factors such as: seasonality, route conditions, weather, elevation and more. As such, this list is framed within the broadest of contexts and is dynamic by its very nature. Therefore, certain variables (additions and/or subtractions) are inherent within such an all-encompassing list. We make every effort to recommend only top of the line clothing and technical gear and it is never our intention for you to buy or rent unnecessary gear.

The Guide Pick is an example of the listed item, giving you an idea of the material and specifications of the item. This exact item does not need to be purchased or used; however, any item you choose must have similar characteristics and performance abilities to the Guide Pick.

RMI Guides concur on the potential necessity of every item, thus every item on the list is required at gear check. However, guides may also have suggestions derived from their experience, some of which will vary from a given list. The guides’ recommendation whether to bring along or leave behind certain item(s) comes during the gear check, when the team first meets. Occasionally this recommendation comes at the expense of having previously purchased an item. If a guide presents the option of leaving behind certain item(s) on the list of required equipment, it is for a reason. Their recommendation may be related to the weather, route conditions, freezing level, perceived strength of the party, or desired pack weight.

Ultimately, there will never be a consensus for a “perfect” equipment list for an ascent. It does not exist because of the multitude of variables faced by climbers throughout the climb. Please follow this equipment list closely so that you will arrive for the gear check with all the required items. Keep in mind the list is not black and white, fine tuning will occur once you meet with your guide. Have a great climb!


  • Most of the required equipment is available for purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering when they use code RMI2018 at checkout. This offer excludes sale items, rentals, meal packages, and Feathered Friends.

Shop Your Equipment List

Equipment List

    • BACKPACK

      A 50+ liter pack is the recommended size for this climb. A separate summit pack is not needed.

    • ICE AXE

      The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following formula for this climb: up to 5'8", use a 55-60 cm axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 60-65 cm axe; and taller, use a 65-70 cm axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should be a few inches below your knee. 

    • CRAMPONS

      12 point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. We highly recommend anti-bot plates to prevent snow from balling up underfoot. Rigid frame crampons designed for technical ice climbing are not recommended.

    • BUFF / NECK GAITER / BALACLAVA

      One item for face protection is required. Our primary recommendation is the Buff. A neck gaiter or balaclava is also acceptable.

    • GLACIER GLASSES

      You will need protective sunglasses, either dark-lensed with side shields or full wrap-around frames. Almost all sunglasses block UV-A, UV-B and infrared rays adequately. Pay attention to the visible light transmission. The darkest lenses (glacier glasses) only allow approx. 6% visible light to get through, while lighter lenses (driving glasses) let in as much as 20+ %. A good rule of thumb is that if you can see the wearer’s pupils through the lenses, they are too light for sun protection at altitude.

    • We recommend a minimum of five upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Two of these should be insulating layers, one light and one medium, that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, soft-shell, down and synthetic options.

    • We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.

    • MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS

      Insulated double boots are the preferred choice. They provide the best insulation as well as a more rigid sole for kicking steps and holding crampons. Leather mountaineering boots that have completely rigid soles are also adequate, but they will need to be insulated and may still result in cold feet on summit days. Bring one pair of chemical foot warmers if you are using the leather mountaineering boots.

    • SUNSCREEN

      We recommend small tubes of SPF 15 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.

    • MEALS

      See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.

    • 2 WATER BOTTLES

      Hard-sided, screw-top, one-liter water bottles with wide mouths are required. Plastics made with high post-consumer recycled content and BPA-Free are recommended.

    • CAMERA
    • 2 CASUAL PANTS
    • 6 SHIRTS

      For hotel dinners and while traveling.

    • TOOTHBRUSH
    • TOOTHPASTE
    • HAND SANITIZER(S)

      Personal size (2 oz.) bottle.

    • BAND-AIDS
    • ASPRIN / IBUPROFEN / TYLENOL
    • ANTACIDS
    • IMODIUM (ANTI-DIARRHEA)
    • PEPTO-BISMOL (STOMACH RELIEF)
    • SMALL ROLL OF ADHESIVE TAPE
    • We recommend you speak with your physician about which medications make sense to have for remote international travel and/or high altitude climbing. We suggest the following:

    • ANTIBIOTICS

      Broad spectrum antibiotics for Traveler's Diarrhea, urinary tract infection, pneumonia, etc.
      Ciprofloxacin (500mg tablets), Metronidazole, Azithromycin (250mg tablets).

    • INSULATED MUG

      Stainless steel or plastics made with high post-consumer recycled content are recommended.

    • READING MATERIAL / JOURNAL
    • iPOD
    • PASSPORT

      Valid for six months beyond your return date.

    • COPY OF PASSPORT

      The first two pages of your passport.

    • COPY OF FLIGHT ITINERARY
    • Purchase travel insurance.

    • Purchase airplane tickets.

    • Reserve rental equipment.

    • Be in the Best Shape of Your Life!


Provided Equipment

RMI provides the following equipment for your program: tents, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, climbing ropes, climbing anchors, avalanche probes, shovels, and blue bags (for solid waste disposal).

Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a satellite phone for emergency contact.

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MEALS

On Mongolia: Mt. Khuiten you will need mountain snacks for 5 days. All of your mountain snack items should weigh 5 - 6 lb.

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner meals on the mountain are included as indicated in our Trip Itinerary. With the exception of hotel breakfasts, most restaurant meals are on your own. You are responsible for your own bottled water and drinks.

MOUNTAIN Snacks

Mountain snacks are eaten during short breaks throughout the day. We continually snack to keep our energy levels up while we climb - lunch begins just after breakfast and ends just before dinner! Avoid packing any items that require preparation or hot water.

The importance of having foods that are genuinely enjoyed cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. In order to combat the loss of appetite at altitude we aim to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, from sweet to sour to salty.

Recommended mountain snack items: dry salami, smoked salmon, jerky (turkey, beef, fish), individually wrapped cheeses such as Laughing Cow or Baby Bell, crackers, bagels, candy bars, hard candies (Jolly Ranchers, toffees, Life Savers), gummy bears, sour candies (Sweet Tarts), cookies, dried fruit, nuts, energy bars, GORP mixes, and drink mixes (Gatorade/Kool-Aid).

We may have a chance to purchase additional food in Mongolia but we recommend you take what you need and only supplement with local food if necessary.

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Payments

Deposit Payments: A deposit payment of $1,500 per person secures your reservation. Deposit payments $2,500 or less may be made via MasterCard, Visa, e-check, check, or wire transfer. Deposit payments over $2,500 must be made via e-check, check, or wire transfer.

Balance Payments: The balance payment is due 120 days prior to the start of your program. We will send a payment reminder approximately three weeks before your payment due date. If your balance payment is not received within 120 days prior to the start of your program, your reservation will be cancelled and all fees forfeited. Trips departing within 120 days must be paid in full at the time of reservation. Please note that balance payments may be made via e-check, check, or wire transfer only.

Cancellation

The $1,500 per person deposit is non-refundable. Written notification is required for all cancellations.

Once RMI receives written notification of cancellation, the following apply:

  • If you cancel 120 or more days before the start of your program, program fees will be refunded less the non-refundable $1,500 per person deposit.
  • If you cancel less than 120 days before the start of your program, no refunds will be issued.

Unfortunately, due to the time-sensitive nature of our business, and the difficulty in re-booking a trip close to departure, we cannot make exceptions to this policy.

Cancellation Insurance

We require that everyone purchase travel insurance. Please see our Travel Page for details.

Land Cost

INCLUDED

  • RMI Leadership
  • Hotel accommodations as indicated in the itinerary, based on double occupancy*
  • All park entrance fees
  • Sight seeing arrangements as indicated in the itinerary
  • Airfare to / from UlaanBaatar and Olgii
  • All group transportation in country as stated in the itinerary
  • All breakfast, lunch, and dinner meals on the mountain and other meals as stated in the itinerary
  • All group cooking, climbing and camping equipment

NOT INCLUDED

  • International airfare
  • Travel insurance, medical evacuation insurance and security evacuation insurance
  • Passport fees
  • Excess baggage fees from U.S. or flights within Mongolia
  • Departure taxes
  • Meals not included in the itinerary
  • Bottled water and personal drinks
  • Customary guide gratuities
  • Support Staff Tip Pool (we suggest $40 per person)
  • Additional room charges including laundry service and other personal expenses
  • Hotel accommodations not indicated in the itinerary
  • Medical, hospitalization and evacuation costs (by any means)

* Accommodations are based on double occupancy.  A Single Supplement Fee will be charged to those occupying single accommodations by choice or circumstance. The single supplement is not available in huts, tents, or in all hotels.

Risk Management

Managing risk is RMI's number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in the mountains such as avalanches, ice fall, rock fall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them.

Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risk and hazards of mountaineering, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.

Climber's Responsibilities

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Some of the responsibility for the team is carried by the individual climbers. For this reason, we ask that each participant:

  • is physically and mentally fit, properly attired and equipped, and continues to self assess throughout the program to ensure as safe a climb as possible. If a climber's own physical fitness limits his or her ability to safely continue upward, that can have a negative impact on the summit experience or opportunity of other climb participants.
  • honestly and accurately describe themselves, in terms of fitness, health and skills, and their equipment to their guides, and that they adhere to the advice of their professional mountain guide.

Age-Appropriate Guidelines & Restrictions

In the interest of the safety and well-being of all participants, RMI adheres to the following age-appropriate guidelines:

  • Ages 15 & under: No participants age 15 & under
  • Ages 16 & 17: Accompanied by parent or legal guardian
  • Ages 18 & above: No restrictions 

An individual’s birthday must precede the departure date of the program. For example: a 15 year old who turns 16 on July 1 may participate on a program beginning July 2.

Under-aged participants on Private Climb or Group Climb programs are assessed on an individual basis.

A minor climber must be accompanied by their parent/legal guardian throughout the entirety of the program. If either climber must descend at any time during the program, both climbers must descend together.

General Policies

Any Participant under the age of 18 must be accompanied on the trip by a parent or legal guardian and both the Participant and parent or legal guardian must sign all forms.

RMI's program schedule and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, terrain, currency fluctuations, changes in outfitting costs, government instability, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including but not limited to increases in program fees, changes to program schedule or itinerary, and changes to guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program.

We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI cannot be responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).

If the Participant decides to leave a trip at any time after the start of the trip and prior to its conclusion, he or she will not be entitled to a refund.

RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a trip at any time if RMI determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for or capable of participating in the program.

The Participant understands and agrees that RMI assumes no responsibility or liability in connection with any travel and hospitality service provided to the Participant by others in connection with the trip, including but not limited to the services provided by airlines, hotels, and motor vehicle operators, and that RMI is not responsible for any act, error, omission, or any injury, loss, accident, delay, irregularity, or danger by a supplier of travel or hospitality services to the Participant in connection with the RMI program.

RMI recommends and strongly advises that the Participant have or purchase personal life, medical, accident, travel, baggage, trip cancellation, and other insurance that may pertain to participation in the program. The Participant understands that RMI provides no such insurance coverage in connection with the trip.

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