Apparel for Denali

Proper apparel is crucial for maintaining warmth, comfort, and protection against the elements on Denali. Each piece should be chosen for its functionality, durability, and ability to layer effectively. Suitable clothing can significantly improve your overall comfort and safety, helping you better manage the extreme conditions you will face. This guide provides detailed recommendations for each necessary clothing item, ensuring you are well-prepared from head to toe. Below, we start with headgear, a critical component for retaining heat and shielding against the cold and sun.

While the entries below are helpful, our retail partner, Whittaker Mountaineering, has some great in-depth guides on Layering and suggested Apparel for Mount Rainier, which is a good starting point for your Denali apparel prep.

Head

Warm Hat

A warm hat is essential for retaining heat and protecting against the cold at high altitudes. Choose a hat made of wool or synthetic materials that provide excellent insulation. It should fit snugly to cover your ears and forehead, keeping you warm in frigid conditions. Consider hats with a fleece lining for added comfort and warmth.

Ball Cap or Sun Hat

A ball cap or sun hat is necessary for protection against the intense UV rays at higher altitudes. Select a hat with a wide brim or a cap with a neck flap to shield your face and neck from the sun. Look for lightweight, breathable materials that dry quickly and offer good ventilation. A hat with a moisture-wicking sweatband can help keep sweat out of your eyes.

Buff

A buff is a versatile piece of gear that can be used as a neck gaiter, headband, or face mask. It provides additional warmth and protection against wind and sun. Choose a buff made of moisture-wicking material to keep sweat away from your skin while providing thermal insulation. Buffs can also be layered with other headgear for added warmth.

Balaclava

A balaclava offers full-face coverage, crucial for protecting against extreme cold and wind. Opt for a balaclava made of breathable, moisture-wicking fabric that fits comfortably under your helmet or hat. It should cover your neck, chin, and cheeks, exposing only your eyes. Some balaclavas come with adjustable vents to manage airflow and prevent overheating.

Thermal Facemask

A thermal facemask provides additional protection for your face in extremely cold conditions. Made from insulating materials, it helps to retain heat while allowing moisture to escape. Look for a facemask that fits well with your other headgear and offers enough flexibility to adjust for comfort and breathability. An excellent thermal facemask should also be compatible with your goggles to prevent fogging.

Hands

For more in-depth info on what to look for when choosing mountaineering gloves, check out the blog post over at our retail partner Whittaker Mountaineering.

Lightweight Gloves

Lightweight gloves are essential for tasks that require dexterity, such as setting up camp, cooking, or handling gear. Choose gloves made of breathable, quick-drying materials that provide some insulation without causing your hands to overheat. These gloves should fit snugly to allow precise movements while offering enough protection against mild cold and wind.

Medium Weight Gloves

Medium-weight gloves provide a balance between warmth and dexterity. They are ideal for moderate conditions and activities that involve more physical exertion. Look for gloves made of durable, insulating materials such as fleece or softshell fabric. These gloves should offer good grip and flexibility, allowing you to handle equipment and climb efficiently.

HeavyWeight Gloves

Heavy-weight gloves are necessary for colder conditions and higher altitudes where extra insulation is needed. Choose gloves that offer robust protection against the cold while still allowing some degree of movement. Features to look for include reinforced palms for durability, waterproofing to keep your hands dry, and adjustable cuffs to seal out the cold.

Expedition Weight Gloves or Mittens

For the coldest conditions, expedition-weight gloves or mittens are indispensable. Mittens generally offer more warmth than gloves because they allow your fingers to share heat. Look for mittens with a combination of down or synthetic insulation for maximum warmth and a waterproof outer layer to protect against snow and ice. Some mittens come with removable liners, providing versatility for varying conditions. Ensure they are roomy enough to wear over a pair of lightweight gloves for added layering and warmth management.

Upper Body

Sun Hoody

A sun hoody is an essential base layer for protecting against the sun's intense UV rays at high altitudes. Choose a lightweight, breathable fabric that offers UPF protection and wicks moisture away from your skin. A sun hoody with a snug fit will help regulate your temperature while providing coverage for your neck and head, reducing the need for additional sunscreen application in exposed areas. Look for features such as thumb loops to keep the sleeves in place and a fitted hood that can be worn under a helmet for sun protection. 

For more specific info on what to look for in a Sun Hoody, check out Whittaker Mountaineering's blog post.

Lightweight Insulating Layer

A lightweight insulating layer is crucial for trapping body heat while allowing moisture to escape. Opt for materials such as fleece or lightweight synthetic fabrics that provide warmth without adding bulk. This layer should fit comfortably over your base layer and under your outer layers, offering flexibility in your layering system. Consider a quarter-zip or full-zip design for easy temperature regulation and quick removal. This layer is perfect for moderate activity levels and cooler conditions.

Medium Weight Insulating Layer

A medium-weight insulating layer provides additional warmth as temperatures drop. Look for garments made of thicker fleece, synthetic insulation, or down, which offer excellent thermal retention while remaining breathable. This layer should be versatile enough to wear independently during moderate conditions or under a shell in harsher weather. Features to consider include a high collar for neck protection, thumb loops for secure fit, and zippered pockets for storage. This layer is ideal for colder conditions or lower activity levels where you need more warmth.

HeavyWeight Insulating Layer

For the coldest conditions, a heavy-weight insulating layer is essential. Choose a high-quality down jacket or a synthetic insulated jacket that offers maximum warmth. Features to consider include a hood for added protection, adjustable cuffs, and a drawcord hem to seal in heat. This layer should be packable and easily accessible for quick changes in weather conditions. Look for jackets with baffle construction to prevent cold spots and ensure even distribution of insulation. This layer is crucial for summit days and when temperatures plummet, providing the necessary warmth to maintain your core temperature.

Rain Jacket (Hardshell)

A rain jacket or hardshell protects against wind, rain, and snow. Select a jacket made of waterproof and breathable materials such as Gore-Tex or eVent, which will keep you dry while allowing moisture to escape. Features include a helmet-compatible hood, pit zips for ventilation, and adjustable cuffs and hems to keep out the elements. The jacket should be durable enough to withstand the rigors of high-altitude climbing. Look for a jacket with a robust front zipper covered by a storm flap to prevent water ingress and high pockets that are accessible even when wearing a harness or backpack.

Insulated Parka with Hood

An insulated parka with a hood is your ultimate defense against extreme cold. Opt for a parka with high-fill down insulation that offers a superior warmth-to-weight ratio. A well-designed parka will have a weather-resistant outer shell, a generous hood for head and neck protection, and plenty of pockets for storage. This layer is crucial for summit day and during rest periods when maintaining body heat is critical. Look for a parka with an adjustable hood that fits over a helmet, internal pockets for drying gloves or storing water bottles, and reinforced shoulders and elbows for added durability. This parka should be the warmest layer in your system, providing essential protection during the coldest parts of your climb.

Lower Body

Socks

Socks are critical to your lower body gear, providing warmth and comfort while preventing blisters. Bring multiple pairs of high-quality, moisture-wicking socks designed for cold weather. Wool or synthetic blends are ideal, as they offer excellent insulation and durability. Consider layering a thinner liner sock under a thicker, cushioned outer sock to manage moisture and reduce friction. Testing your sock combination with your boots is important to ensure a comfortable fit and to avoid potential hot spots or pressure points.

Underwear

Choose moisture-wicking, quick-drying underwear to maintain comfort and hygiene during the expedition. Synthetic or merino wool options are best for their breathability and ability to manage moisture. Avoid cotton, which retains moisture and can lead to chafing and discomfort. Consider bringing a few pairs to rotate, ensuring you stay fresh and comfortable throughout the climb.

Lightweight Baselayer

A lightweight baselayer is essential for wicking moisture away from your skin and providing a foundation for your layering system. Look for merino wool or synthetic materials that offer breathability and quick-drying properties. This layer should fit snugly without restricting movement, allowing you to stay dry and comfortable during physical exertion. Lightweight baselayers are ideal for moderate activity levels and can be worn alone in warmer conditions or layered under other clothing as temperatures drop.

Climbing Pants

Climbing pants are designed for mobility and durability, which are essential for the varied terrain you'll encounter on Denali. Choose pants made from stretchable, abrasion-resistant fabrics that offer freedom of movement and protection against the elements. Features to look for include articulated knees, reinforced seat and knees, and multiple pockets for storage. Convertible pants with zip-off legs can be helpful for temperature regulation, allowing you to adapt to changing conditions on the climb.

Hardshell Pants with Full-Length Side Zips

Hardshell pants are crucial for protecting against wind, rain, and snow. Select pants made from waterproof, breathable materials like Gore-Tex or eVent. Full-length side zips are essential for easy on and off over boots and other layers, providing ventilation and flexibility. Look for reinforced cuffs to resist crampon damage, adjustable waistbands for a secure fit, and articulated knees for enhanced mobility. Hardshell pants should be durable enough to withstand the harsh conditions of high-altitude climbing.

Down or Synthetic Insulated Pants

Insulated pants provide essential warmth during the coldest parts of your expedition. Choose down or synthetic insulated pants that offer a high warmth-to-weight ratio and can be easily layered over your climbing pants. These pants should be lightweight, compressible, and feature full-length side zips for quick adjustments. Look for reinforced areas to withstand abrasion and a design that allows for easy movement. Insulated pants are vital for staying warm during rest periods, at high camps, and on summit days when temperatures can plummet.

Gear for Denali

Equipping yourself with the right gear is fundamental to a successful Denali expedition. Each item on our gear list has been selected based on years of experience and countless expeditions, ensuring it meets the specific demands of the mountain. Proper gear will enhance your safety and overall experience, allowing you to focus on the climb rather than worrying about your equipment. Below, we outline the essential gear you'll need, emphasizing the importance of quality, functionality, and fit.

Backpacks & duffles

travel duffle

A durable 100+ liter duffel bag is essential for transporting your gear to and from the mountain. Look for a bag with sturdy construction, strong handles, and a reinforced bottom to withstand heavy loads and rough handling. Weather resistance is crucial, so opt for a bag made of weather-resistant fabric to protect your gear from rain and snow. Additionally, easy access is vital; a bag with a broad, U-shaped opening will allow for convenient packing and unpacking. This duffel bag will serve as your primary transport container, so it must be spacious enough to hold all your equipment securely.

sled duffle

For sled transport, a lightweight 100+ liter duffel bag is crucial. This bag will carry the gear you’ll need to move on a sled, so it should have a lightweight design to make it easier to handle when loaded. Durability is also essential, as the bag must withstand the abrasions and impacts of sled travel. Ensure it has adequate straps for securing it to the sled. This bag should be easy to pack and robust enough to endure the movement over snow and ice.

85+ liter backpack

A large, 85+ liter backpack is vital for carrying your gear during the climb. The right backpack will distribute weight evenly and provide ample space for essential items. Look for a robust frame to support the weight of your load, which can include layers, climbing gear, and a portion of group equipment. A comfortable harness system with padded shoulder straps, a hip belt, and an adjustable torso length is essential for comfort and fit. Multiple compartments will help keep your gear organized and easily accessible, while ice axe loops provide secure storage for your ice axes. Hydration compatibility, such as a hydration sleeve and ports, makes it easier to stay hydrated without stopping and digging for water. This backpack will be your companion throughout the expedition, so ensure it fits well and can be adjusted for maximum comfort. If you would like more information on choosing a Mountaineering Backpack, you can check out the blog post over at Whittaker Mountaineering.

Sleeping Bag & Pad

Sleeping Bag

A high-quality sleeping bag is critical for staying warm and comfortable during your Denali expedition. You’ll need a sleeping bag rated between -20°F and -40°F to handle the extreme cold at high altitudes. Look for a sleeping bag with a mummy design that provides excellent insulation while minimizing weight and bulk. A draft collar and hood are essential to trap warmth and protect against the cold. Down insulation offers the best warmth-to-weight ratio, but ensure it has a water-resistant shell or a synthetic option to maintain warmth even when damp. Testing your sleeping bag in cold conditions before the expedition will give you confidence in its performance.

Compression Sack

Use a compression sack for your sleeping bag to optimize space in your backpack. A compression sack with durable fabric and strong stitching will withstand the pressure of reducing the sleeping bag's volume. Choose one that is water-resistant to protect your sleeping bag from moisture, keeping it dry and functional in wet conditions. Compressing your sleeping bag significantly reduces its size, allowing more room for other essential gear in your pack. Ensure the compression sack is large enough to handle the bulk of your sleeping bag but compact enough to fit easily in your pack.

Inflatable Sleeping Pad

An inflatable sleeping pad provides crucial insulation and comfort, separating you from the cold ground. Look for a full-length pad that covers your entire body, ensuring maximum warmth. A high R-value indicates better insulation, which is essential for cold-weather camping. Choose a lightweight pad that is easy to inflate and made of durable material that can withstand rough surfaces. Test the pad before your trip to ensure it holds air throughout the night and packs down small enough to fit in your backpack.

Closed Cell Foam Sleeping Pad

In addition to an inflatable sleeping pad, a closed-cell foam pad adds an extra layer of insulation and protection from the cold ground. These pads are lightweight, durable, and provide a reliable barrier against the elements. They can be used with an inflatable pad for added warmth and comfort or on their own in milder conditions. A foam pad can also be a backup if your inflatable pad fails. Choosing a foam pad that is easy to roll up and pack is essential, ensuring it fits neatly in or on your backpack.

headgear

Helmet

A climbing helmet is crucial for protecting your head from falling ice, rocks, and impacts during a fall. Choose a lightweight helmet for comfort over long periods, well-ventilated to keep you cool during strenuous activity, and adjustable to ensure a secure and comfortable fit over various layers of headgear. Durability is critical, as the helmet needs to provide reliable protection in harsh conditions.

Glacier Glasses

High-altitude climbing on Denali exposes you to intense UV radiation, making glacier glasses essential. Look for 100% UV protection glasses to shield your eyes from harmful ultraviolet rays. A wraparound design provides maximum coverage and protection from reflective glare, while an anti-fog coating ensures clear vision in varying conditions. Durable frames that can withstand cold temperatures and rough handling are also important. Choose glasses that fit comfortably and stay secure during physical activity, and always carry a spare pair in case of damage or loss. For more info on glacier glasses and goggles, check out the gear post at our retail partner, Whittaker Mountaineering.

Goggles

In addition to glacier glasses, goggles are necessary for protection in high winds, heavy snow, and whiteout conditions. Key features include a dual-lens system that reduces fogging and provides clear vision, adjustable straps to ensure a secure fit over your helmet, and good ventilation to prevent fogging. High UV protection is also essential to shield your eyes from harmful radiation. Ensure your goggles fit well with your helmet and other headgear and are comfortable and functional in various conditions.

cooking & camping

Tent*

A high-quality, four-season tent is essential for protection against the harsh conditions on Denali. When selecting a tent, prioritize durability to withstand high winds, heavy snow, and low temperatures. The tent should offer ample space for you and your gear, with a two-person tent typically recommended for comfort. Additionally, it should be easy to set up quickly, even in severe weather, and feature good ventilation to reduce condensation inside. Ensuring your tent is in excellent condition and practicing setting it up in various conditions will help you become proficient and efficient in its use. For more info on what to look for in a four-season tent, check out the post at Whittaker Mountaineering.

Stove*

A reliable stove is crucial for melting snow for water and cooking meals at high altitudes. Choose a durable and reliable stove that performs well in extreme cold and windy conditions. Fuel efficiency is important, as carrying extra fuel adds weight, so consider a model that conserves fuel. The stove should also be easy to operate, even with gloves on. Common choices include liquid fuel stoves or high-output canister stoves designed for cold weather use. Your stove is essential for making sure it functions properly when needed.

Cooking Equipment*

Cooking equipment should be lightweight yet robust enough to handle the demands of high-altitude cooking. Necessary items include:

• Pots and Pans: Made from lightweight materials like titanium or hard-anodized aluminum.

• Utensils: Lightweight, durable, and heat-resistant. Consider multi-purpose tools to save space.

• Windshield: To improve stove efficiency in windy conditions.

• Lighter and Matches: Waterproof and stored in a secure, dry place.

Ensure all your cooking equipment is in good working order and practice using it to streamline meal preparation.

hardgoods for Denali

When preparing for a Denali expedition, having the right hard goods is crucial for safety and efficiency. This section covers essential items such as ice axes, crampons, carabiners, and more, each carefully chosen to meet the demands of high-altitude mountaineering. From navigating crevassed glaciers to ascending steep slopes, the proper selection and use of these tools are fundamental to your success on the mountain. Below, we detail each piece of equipment's key features and purposes, ensuring you are well-equipped for the challenging conditions you will face.

crampons & ice axe

For an in-depth look at crampons and ice axes, check out our retail partner, Whittaker Mountaineer's Guide to Ice Axes & Crampons.

Ice Axe

An ice axe is indispensable for climbing Denali, providing essential functions such as self-arrest, cutting steps, and stability on steep slopes. Opt for an ice axe that balances lightweight construction with durability. A long-shafted traditional axe is often preferable for Denali's mixed terrain, allowing for greater versatility. Ensure the axe has a comfortable grip and a sharp pick. Some climbers prefer a shorter, more technical axe paired with a ski pole, but the traditional longer axe is often better suited for the varied conditions you'll encounter. Include a leash to prevent accidental loss.

Crampons

Crampons are vital for maintaining traction on ice and snow. Select crampons that securely fit your boots and offer adjustable settings to adapt to different terrains. Twelve-point crampons are ideal for the mixed conditions on Denali, providing stability on both ice and snow. Make sure the points are sharp and the bindings are in excellent condition. High-quality crampons will ensure you can navigate icy surfaces safely, enhancing your climbing efficiency.

rope travel & crevasse rescue

climbing rope*

A high-quality climbing rope is vital for Denali's safety and efficiency. A 60-meter, dry-treated rope is recommended for glacier travel and crevasse rescue. Dry treatment helps prevent the rope from absorbing moisture, which can add weight and freeze in cold conditions. The diameter of the rope should balance between durability and weight, typically around 8-9mm for glacier travel. Please ensure your rope is in excellent condition, free from any damage or excessive wear. Regularly inspect and practice using your rope in various scenarios to ensure you are comfortable with its handling and performance.

Climbing Harness

A climbing harness is crucial for safety and mobility on the mountain. Select a harness designed for alpine climbing, which offers adjustable leg loops and a comfortable fit over multiple layers of clothing. Look for a harness with gear loops for essential climbing equipment and a secure, easy-to-use buckle system. Ensure your harness fits well and is comfortable to wear for extended periods, as it will be an integral part of your gear throughout the expedition. Practice putting it on while wearing gloves and multiple layers to ensure ease of use in cold conditions.

Carabiners

Carabiners are essential for various climbing tasks, from securing ropes to creating anchors. For your Denali expedition, you will need:

• Triple Action Locking Carabiner: This carabiner is used for clipping into the climbing rope. Its triple-locking mechanism provides extra security.

• Two Locking Carabiners: These are used for clipping into anchors and other critical points where additional security is necessary. Choose lightweight but strong carabiners with a smooth gate action.

• Six Non-Locking Carabiners: These versatile tools are used for various tasks, such as packing ditch loops and attaching gear. Ensure they are durable and easy to operate with gloves on.

Familiarize yourself with the operation of each carabiner type and practice using them in different scenarios to ensure smooth and efficient handling during your climb.

Mechanical Ascender

A mechanical ascender is essential for fixed-line travel on steep sections of the route. Choose a lightweight, reliable ascender that is easy to attach and detach from the rope. Ensure it has a comfortable grip and smooth operation, allowing for efficient movement up fixed lines. Familiarity with your ascender and regular practice in various conditions will ensure smooth transitions and reliable performance during the climb.

Crevasse Rescue Kit

A crevasse rescue kit is essential for safely navigating and responding to emergencies on the glacier. Your kit should include:

• Pickets or other Anchors*: Pickets or other anchor devices are essential for setting up secure crevasse rescue systems on Denali. These tools provide reliable anchor points in snow and ice, allowing climbers to safely haul teammates out of crevasses or secure themselves in case of a fall. Make sure to carry several pickets or other anchor devices and practice using them in various snow conditions to ensure proficiency during emergencies.

• Double- and Single-Length Sewn Nylon Slings: These are used for setting up anchors and other rescue setups. They provide versatility in creating secure points for rescue operations.

• Accessory Cord: This is a high-quality, durable cord for constructing prusiks and other essential knots. It is crucial for building efficient and effective rescue systems.

• Carabiners: Locking and non-locking carabiners are vital for securing ropes and equipment. Locking carabiners provide added security for critical connections, while non-locking carabiners offer versatility for general use. A minimal crevasse rescue kit should include one triple-action carabiner, two locking carabiners, and one non-locking carabiner.

• Prusik, Butterfly, and Münter Hitch Knots: Familiarize yourself with these knots and practice them regularly to ensure proficiency in crevasse rescue situations. Knowing these knots allows you to create secure connections and manage loads effectively.

• Micro Traxion and Tiblock: While not strictly necessary, a Micro Traxion and Tiblock will make your rescue systems significantly more efficient than prusik hitches for each pulley.

Regular practice with your crevasse rescue kit components is crucial to ensure proficiency and confidence in rescue scenarios. This equipment is vital for team safety and effective response to emergencies on the glacier.

approach gear

Snowshoes or skis

Snowshoes are necessary for traveling across deep snow, especially on the lower glacier. Select snowshoes that are lightweight yet sturdy, with good flotation and traction. Ensure they are compatible with your boots and practice using them to become proficient, as efficient movement in deep snow is crucial for conserving energy. Look for easy-to-use bindings, durable decking, and aggressive crampons for added traction. If you're climbing Denali with a guided party, you are more often 'drafting' than breaking the trail, so having a longer pair is unnecessary. You will log miles of roped glacier travel while wearing snowshoes, so spend time walking in them before the trip. We highly recommend models with a heel lift, which makes uphill travel significantly more manageable.

If you're familiar with backcountry skiing and have a touring setup you are comfortable with, consider skinning instead of snowshoeing for the non-technical sections of the climb.

Trekking or ski Poles

Trekking poles are indispensable for maintaining balance and reducing strain on your legs during long ascents and descents. Look for adjustable poles, allowing you to shorten them for uphill climbs and lengthen them for downhill sections. Lightweight poles are preferable to minimize the added weight you carry, and they should be durable enough to withstand the rigors of rugged terrain. Comfort is also important, so choose poles with ergonomic handles that reduce hand fatigue and straps that provide added support. Trekking poles will help conserve your energy, improve stability, and protect your knees, making them a vital piece of equipment for your expedition.

sled*

Unlike other Seven Summits, Denali requires you to schlep all your gear and equipment with you for the duration of your climb. In addition to backpacks, you'll use a plastic expedition sled on the less technical portions of the climb. Most local air taxis (like K2 Avaiation) offer basic plastic sleds for you to rent in Talkeetna, and if you climb with RMI Expeditions, sleds and the necessary riggings are provided.

avalanche safety

Avalanche Transceiver

Safety on Denali’s slopes requires an avalanche transceiver. Choose a modern, digital transceiver with multiple antennas for accurate and fast search capabilities. Ensure it has fresh batteries and carry spares. Use your transceiver regularly to become proficient in search and rescue techniques, as this can be a lifesaver in emergencies. Familiarize yourself with the device’s functions and practice searches in various scenarios to improve your response time.

Avalanche Shovel

An avalanche shovel is critical for various tasks, including digging out tent platforms, constructing snow walls for wind protection, and performing avalanche rescue. Choose a lightweight yet durable shovel with a sturdy metal blade. A telescoping handle is beneficial, offering a compact size for storage and ease of use when extended. The shovel should also be comfortable to grip, even with gloves on, and capable of moving snow efficiently. The ability to quickly and effectively shovel snow can be crucial in routine and emergencies, making the avalanche shovel an indispensable part of your gear.

Avalanche Probe

In the event of an avalanche, an avalanche probe is used to locate buried team members quickly and accurately. Select a lightweight probe that is easily extendable to at least 240 cm. It should be made of durable materials like aluminum or carbon fiber and feature a quick-locking mechanism for fast deployment. The probe should also have clear markings to measure depth, aiding the rescue process. Regular practice with your avalanche probe is essential to deploy and use it efficiently under stress. Having a reliable probe as part of your gear can significantly improve the chances of a successful rescue.

Footwear for Denali

Selecting the right footwear for your Denali expedition is paramount to ensuring your comfort, warmth, and safety. The extreme conditions of high-altitude mountaineering demand boots that can withstand severe cold provide ample insulation and offer reliable protection against the elements. Proper footwear will keep your feet warm and dry and support you on the varied and challenging terrain you'll encounter. This section covers the essential types of footwear you'll need, from technical mountaineering boots to practical casual shoes, ensuring you're well-prepared for every aspect of your climb.

Mountaineering Boots

Mountaineering boots are one of the most critical pieces of gear for your Denali expedition. Proper footwear ensures that your feet stay warm, dry, and comfortable throughout the climb, which is essential for performance and safety. For an in-depth look at mountain footwear, check out the blog over at our retail partner Whittaker Mountaineering.

Difference Between Double Boots and Expedition Boots 

Double boots and expedition boots are designed to provide insulation and protection in extremely cold environments, but they have some key differences.

• Double Boots: These boots feature a removable insulated liner inside a durable outer shell. This design offers excellent warmth and can dry the liners in your sleeping bag overnight. Double boots are versatile and suitable for various conditions, making them a popular choice for Denali. Look for models with a secure fit, robust lacing systems, and compatibility with crampons.

• Expedition Boots: Also known as 8000-meter boots, these are designed for the coldest, highest-altitude climbs. They feature integrated insulation layers and are typically lighter and warmer than double boots. Expedition boots provide exceptional warmth and are ideal for summit pushes and extremely cold conditions. These boots often have built-in gaiters for additional protection against snow and wind.

Overboots

Overboots are an additional layer of protection worn over your mountaineering boots. They provide extra insulation and help keep your feet warm in extreme cold. Overboots are essential for summit day or any time you expect prolonged exposure to very low temperatures. Look for overboots that are easy to put on and take off, fit well over your boots, and have durable soles for traction. Ensure they are compatible with your crampons, and test them with your boots before the expedition.

Gaiters

Gaiters are protective coverings worn over your boots and lower legs to keep snow, ice, and debris out of your footwear. They also provide an additional layer of warmth and help prevent moisture from entering your boots. Choose gaiters made of durable, waterproof materials with secure closures and reinforced areas to withstand abrasion from crampons. Full-length gaiters offer the best protection and should fit snugly around your boots and calves.

Other Footwear

In addition to your primary mountaineering boots, having the proper other footwear is essential for comfort and practicality during your Denali expedition. This includes booties for warmth and relaxation in camp and casual shoes for travel and downtime.

Booties

Booties are essential for keeping your feet warm and comfortable when you're not in your mountaineering boots. They are perfect for wearing inside your tent or around camp during rest periods. Look for insulated booties with a durable sole that can handle walking on snow and ice. Synthetic or down-filled booties offer excellent warmth and pack down small for easy storage. Some models come with a removable liner, which can be dried overnight, adding an extra layer of convenience and comfort.

misc items for Denali

When embarking on a Denali expedition, having the right miscellaneous items can make a significant difference in your overall comfort and safety. Beyond the essential gear and apparel, these items address crucial needs such as first aid, personal comfort, and emergency communication. This section covers the additional equipment and personal items that you'll need to ensure a smooth and enjoyable climb. By paying attention to these details, you can better prepare for the diverse challenges of high-altitude mountaineering and make your Denali adventure a success.

First Aid and Emergency Equipment

Personal First Aid Kit

A personal first aid kit is crucial for addressing minor injuries and common ailments during your Denali expedition. Your kit should include adhesive bandages, antiseptic wipes, blister treatment, pain relievers, and any personal medications. Customize your kit based on your medical needs and ensure it’s easily accessible. Having a well-stocked first aid kit allows you to handle minor issues promptly, preventing them from becoming serious problems.

Required Medications

For high-altitude expeditions like Denali, certain medications are recommended to manage altitude-related issues. Acetazolamide (Diamox) is commonly used to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness. Dexamethasone is a steroid that can help in severe cases of altitude sickness, and Nifedipine can be used for high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE). Consult with your doctor before the expedition to understand how and when to use these medications, and ensure you bring enough for the duration of your trip.

Group First Aid Kit*

In addition to your personal kit, you should carry a group first aid kit. This comprehensive kit includes a broader range of medical supplies for more serious injuries and emergencies. If you're climbing with RMI, this will be carried by your guides. A group first aid kit should contain enough items to address multiple injuries across the group. Familiarize yourself with the location and contents of the group kit so you know where to find it in an emergency. Knowing what’s available in the group kit can help you respond quickly and effectively if a situation arises.

Emergency Communication Device*

An emergency communication device is vital for safety on Denali. If you're climbing with RMI, your guides will carry satellite phones or other devices such as Garmin InReach for reliable communication in remote areas. These devices are used to stay in contact with the RMI office and emergency services if necessary but are worth bringing personally if you want to keep in touch with friends and family. Ensure you know the protocols for using these devices and communicate any emergencies promptly. Reliable communication means can be a lifeline in critical situations, providing access to emergency response if needed.

Personal Items

Cookware & Cutlery

Proper cookware and cutlery are essential for preparing and consuming meals efficiently during your Denali expedition. Bring a durable, lightweight bowl, an insulated mug, and a reliable spoon or spork. Insulated mugs are handy for keeping beverages warm in cold conditions. Ensure your utensils are made of materials that can withstand harsh conditions and are easy to clean. Having practical and functional cookware helps you maintain energy levels with hot meals and drinks, which is crucial for your overall performance and comfort.

Water Bottles

Hydration is critical at high altitudes, so carrying reliable water bottles is a must. Choose durable, wide-mouth bottles that are easy to fill and clean. Having at least two 1-liter bottles is advisable to ensure you have enough water throughout the day. Consider insulated water bottles to prevent your water from freezing in extreme cold. Staying well-hydrated helps you acclimate better and maintain your physical performance.

Thermos

A thermos is invaluable for keeping liquids hot for extended periods. It allows you to carry hot water, tea, or other warm beverages, providing a vital heat source and hydration. Select a high-quality thermos that is lightweight yet robust, with a reliable seal to prevent leaks. A good thermos can make a significant difference in maintaining your body temperature in cold conditions.

Insulated Water Bottle Covers

Insulated water bottle covers are essential to prevent your water from freezing. These covers add an extra layer of insulation, ensuring that your water remains liquid even in sub-zero temperatures. Look for covers that fit your water bottles snugly and are easy to carry. Having reliable insulation for your water bottles helps maintain hydration levels, which is crucial for your health and performance.

Stuff Sacks

Stuff sacks help organize your gear and keep it protected from the elements. Use them to store clothing, food, and other small items. Waterproof or water-resistant stuff sacks are ideal for keeping your belongings dry. Different sizes and colors can help you quickly identify and access your gear. Proper organization with stuff sacks ensures that your gear remains dry and easily accessible, contributing to a more efficient and stress-free expedition.

Large Garbage Bags

Large garbage bags serve multiple purposes on an expedition. They can be used as liners for your backpack to keep gear dry, store waste, or as an emergency waterproof cover. Bring a few heavy-duty garbage bags, as they are versatile and lightweight. These bags help manage waste effectively and ensure your gear remains moisture-free.

Pocketknife or multi-tool

A pocketknife is a versatile tool for various tasks, from preparing food to making gear repairs. Choose a lightweight, multi-functional knife with a sharp blade and other useful tools such as scissors and screwdrivers. Ensure it is easily accessible and securely stored to avoid accidents. A reliable pocketknife can be a lifesaver in many situations, providing you with the functionality needed for numerous tasks.

Lighter

A lighter is essential for starting stoves and fires. Bring a durable, windproof lighter that functions well in cold conditions. It’s also wise to have a backup lighter or waterproof matches in an emergency. A reliable lighter ensures you can prepare meals, boil water, and stay warm when needed.

Activity Tracking Watch

An activity tracking watch helps monitor your physical condition and manage your daily schedule. Choose a watch that tracks altitude, heart rate, and other vital metrics. Features such as GPS, weather updates, and long battery life are also beneficial. An activity tracking watch provides valuable data that helps you pace yourself and stay informed about your environment.

Toiletries

Food for Denali

Proper nutrition is crucial for a successful Denali climb, providing the energy and stamina needed to tackle the demanding conditions of the mountain. This guide will help you prepare your meals, focusing on breakfast, lunch, and dinner, ensuring you have a balanced diet to maintain your strength and morale throughout the expedition.

Eating at Altitude

Eating at high altitude can be challenging due to reduced appetite and the physical demands of climbing. It’s essential to maintain a regular eating schedule and consume enough calories to sustain your energy levels. Opt for high-calorie, nutrient-dense foods that are easy to digest and enjoy. Staying hydrated is equally important, so drink plenty of fluids, including water and hot drinks.

Meals

Breakfast

A hearty breakfast is essential to start your day on the mountain. Breakfast should provide a mix of carbohydrates, proteins, and fats to fuel your morning climb. Here are some ideal breakfast options to consider:

Instant Oatmeal or Grits: Quick to prepare, providing a warm, comforting start to your day.
Cold Cereal (Granola): Easy to eat, even in cold weather, and offers a good mix of carbohydrates and fiber.
Bagels with Cream Cheese: A substantial option that offers carbs and fats, providing lasting energy.
Bacon and Eggs: If you have the means to cook them, they provide excellent protein and fats.
Breakfast Bars: Convenient and packed with energy, ideal for quick mornings.
Hot Drinks (Tea, Coffee, Hot Cocoa): Essential for warmth and comfort, helping to keep you hydrated and warm.

Lunch and Snacks

Mountain lunches are eaten during short breaks throughout the day to maintain energy levels. These snacks should be easy to consume without preparation or hot water. The key is to bring a variety of foods that you genuinely enjoy, stimulating your palate and encouraging consistent eating, which is vital at high altitudes where appetite can diminish.

Recommended Mountain Lunch Items:

• Bagels, tortillas, and crackers (Wheat Thins, Triscuits)
• Hummus, Pringles, corn nuts
• Smoked almonds, roasted cashews, GORP mix (peanuts, M&M's, sunflower seeds, raisins)
• Smoked salmon, fresh veggies (carrots)
• Salami, pepperoni, cheese (pepper jack, Swiss, cheddar)
• Jerky, candy (sweet and sour varieties), chocolate bars, hard candies
• Energy bars (Cliff, Luna), dried fruits (apricots, pineapple, pear)
• Personal drink mixes (Gatorade, Kool-Aid, Crystal Light, instant coffee, hot cider)

Dinner

Dinners on Denali are designed to be hearty and satisfying, helping you recover from the day’s exertions and prepare for the next day. The menu typically includes fresh food, retort entrees, freeze-dried meals, and packaged items, ensuring variety and adequate nutrition.

Fresh Food: Vegetables, tortillas, and cheese provide a break from dehydrated meals and offer essential nutrients.
Retort Entrees: Fully cooked meals that can be heated in hot water, offering a convenient and tasty option.
Freeze-Dried Entrees: Brands like Mountain House or Alpine Air provide lightweight, calorie-dense meals that are easy to prepare.
Packaged Main Course Items: Ramen, Lipton Rice or Noodles, and macaroni and cheese are easy to cook and comforting.
Hot Drinks and Desserts: Various teas, cocoa, and simple desserts provide a satisfying end to your meal and help keep you warm.

Preparing for Your Expedition

Where to Buy Groceries

Plan ahead and purchase the bulk of your food before arriving in Alaska. Specialty items and your favorite snacks might not be available in local stores, so bringing them with you is best. Some perishable items can be bought en route to Talkeetna, but ensure you have everything you need to avoid last-minute shopping stress.

How to Divvy Up and Pack Food

Organize your food into daily rations, clearly labeling each package. Use durable, waterproof containers and bags to protect your food from the elements. Vacuum-sealed bags are excellent for keeping food fresh and compact. Pack heavier items at the bottom of your backpack and distribute the weight evenly to maintain balance. Pre-packaged portions help streamline meal preparation on the mountain, allowing you to focus on the climb and recovery.