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Mt. Elbrus North Side

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  • Show Trip Info

    Price
    $5600
    Deposit
    $1250
    Duration
    17 days
    Difficulty
    Level 3
    Type
    Mountaineering
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Mt. Elbrus North Side

Mt. Elbrus North Side

Standing 18,510’ above the nearby Black and Caspian Seas, Russia’s Mt. Elbrus is Europe’s tallest mountain. Our Elbrus North Side Expedition ascends a less traveled route on this popular mountain.

MT. ELBRUS CLIMB HIGHLIGHTS

  • Visit Moscow and stroll across Red Square to explore the courtyards and cathedrals of the Kremlin, after the climb wander through St. Petersburg’s Hermitage and many canals.
  • Travel through the remote countryside of Russia's Caucasus Mountains to reach the foot of Europe's highest peak.
  • Climb a less traveled route on Elbrus as we ascend one of the world's Seven Summits as part of a small, independent expedition.
  • Learn the subtleties and tricks of expedition style climbing as we move our camps higher up the mountain in preparation for a summit bid.
  • Take part in an RMI adventure and see why we continue to set the standard in guiding excellence.

Standing in the heart of the rugged Caucasus Mountains, Mt. Elbrus rises impressively from the green plains that stretch northward into the heartland of Russia. RMI guides have been climbing Mt. Elbrus since the early 1990s and we have seen the mountain grow in popularity over the years. In our commitment to continually set the standard in mountain guiding excellence we are pleased to offer a climb of Mt. Elbrus' seldom visited North Side for a new, unique, and unmatched expedition to Europe’s highest point.

Our adventures begin a thousand miles to the North of Mt. Elbrus in Moscow - the political, economic, and cultural heart of Russia - before we fly south to the town of Mineralnye Vody, the gateway of the Caucasus. The rising green foothills dotted with shepherds mounted on horseback give way to Mt. Elbrus, framed by the jagged peaks of the Caucasus. The route takes us from the mountain's base, sitting between ancient lava flows, up the rolling and rarely traveled glaciers of Mt. Elbrus' north side to the West Summit, the mountain's highest point.

Simply reaching Base Camp gives climbers a rare glimpse of a part of Russia's countryside that has eluded the passage of time.

 

The climb is a moderate snow climb, comparable in difficulty to the standard route. However, there are far fewer climbers on this route and it has a reputation of being a bit more adventurous. Due to the mountain's size and seclusion we climb "expedition style", acclimatizing as we move camps higher in preparation for the summit bid.

Upon returning from our climb we fly to St. Petersburg. On the shores of the Gulf of Finland, St. Petersburg is often described as the "Venice of the North" with canals that weave between the city’s stunning architecture and famous museums that amazing works of art. Our time in St. Petersburg is the ideal way to end our Russian adventures.

THE RMI DIFFERENCE

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. was established in 1969 and is one of America's oldest and most-trusted guide services. We are the largest guide service on Mt. Rainier and Denali and leaders in guiding climbs and treks around the globe. Our years of leading mountain adventures give us the experience and knowledge to create the best possible trips. We work hard to live up to our reputation as an industry leader.

As the only American guide service to regularly lead climbs of Mt. Elbrus' North Side, we are also one of very few expeditions to guide to Elbrus' West Summit from the North Side instead of the slightly lower East Summit.

Our climb is led by our some of our top U.S. guides who bring years of international climbing experience to the expedition. We work closely with our Russian partner, a famous Soviet-era climber, to organize and coordinate the trip. Our relationships there are the key to our trip's success and scaling Mt. Elbrus' overlooked North Side with these climbing veterans' leadership and support is an unforgettable experience. RMI’s trip preparation before departure takes care of the details for you, from hotels and airport transfers to arranging in country flights, so that you can focus on preparing for the climb instead of the distractions that come with coordinating logistics.

In Moscow and St. Petersburg we stay right in the center of the cities within a few minutes walking distance of the famous sites. While on the mountain we use RMI's own equipment brought from the U.S., ensuring that our expedition standards of quality, reliability, and comfort are met. The meals on the mountain are organized by our guides and cooked by them, keeping the team content, healthy, and strong throughout the climb. Our exceptional focus on detail, our unparalleled level of climber attention, and our genuine love of these adventures are what make our programs truly memorable.

ELBRUS SOUTHSIDE ALTERNATIVE

We also lead climbs of Mt. Elbrus' traditional route on the South Side of the mountain. This program is four days shorter and less technically and physically demanding than a North Side expedition as we use established huts on the mountain. Our Elbrus - South Side Climb is ideal for climbers looking for a slightly shorter climb or without expedition climbing experience.

SAFETY

Safety has always been RMI's top priority and we strive to create the safest mountain experience possible. RMI's experienced team of guides focus on leading a fun and successful climb without compromising safety. We apply the same standards of safety we bring to Alaska and the Himalayas to our climbs of Mt. Elbrus. Careful planning, precise ascent profiles, flexibility in our itinerary, daily weather forecasts via satellite, and diligent attention are taken as we venture to high altitudes. Comprehensive medical kits, rescue gear, and communications equipment are carried with the group throughout the expedition. Base Camp is also equipped with medical and rescue gear.

As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.

Climber Reviews

Filter By
08/26/2019
I hope more people put this trip on their bucket list. Quality guides and team. Truly one of the best climbs I've been on.
Daniel K.

08/27/2014
The experience of being out on the mountain, and the time built into the itinerary to sample a little of Russian culture (off the mountain).
Johann M.

08/21/2014
Obtaining the summit and descending in a safe manner.
Bruce P.

09/15/2013
Well coordinated trip logistics and good base camp location/conditions
David A.

  • Upcoming Climbs

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  • Price
    $5600
    Deposit
    $1250
    Duration
    17 days
    Difficulty
    Level 3
    Type
    Mountaineering
Table of Contents
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Day 1

TRAVEL DAY

Depart U.S.A. Depending on flight times and connections travel to Moscow, Russia typically takes almost 24 hours from the U.S.



Day 2

MOSCOW • 512' | 156M

Arrive in Moscow (SVO). Hire a Yandex taxi to get to the hotel. Once we check-in to our hotel, the afternoon is free to rest and explore the city. A team orientation meeting is held at 7:00 p.m. We spend the night in Moscow at the Park Inn Sadu.

Moscow



Day 3

MOSCOW • 512' | 156M

We take a walking tour to visit Lenin's Tomb, Red Square, the G.U.M., St. Basil's Cathedral, and the Kremlin. The afternoon is free to explore the city. We spend the night at the Park Inn Sadu. (B)

Moscow



Day 4

KISLOVODSK • 2,861' | 872M

We have an early morning flight from Moscow to Mineralnye Vody. From the airport we drive to the town of Kislovodsk, the last town before entering the lower steppes of the Caucasus. We spend the rest of the day sorting our gear and preparing for the climb. Overnight in Kislovodsk. (B)

Mineralnye Vody



Day 5

BASE CAMP • 8,300’ | 2,530M

A four-hour drive takes us into the heart of the lush foothills of the lower Caucasus to Mt. Elbrus Base Camp (8,300'). Once we establish our Base Camp, we take a short acclimatization hike to explore the remote valley and stretch our legs after the many long days of travel. (B, D)

Base Camp



Day 6

Carry to 11,200’ • 8,300’ | 2,530M

We pack up a portion of our supplies and make a carry to our cache site below Camp 1. After depositing our cache and enjoying the views, we descend back to Base Camp for the night. (B, D)

Carry



Day 7

Move to Camp 1 • 12,300’ | 3,749M

The route from Base Camp takes us above a narrow gorge and out of the high grasslands into the alpine zone, affording stunning views of the glaciers of Mt. Elbrus and the lower steppes of the Caucasus. The last stretch of the climb leads through the jumbled rock moraine along the Mikelchiran Glacier before cresting a final steep pitch into camp. (B, D)

Camp 1



Day 8

BACK CARRY AND ACCLIMATIZATION (11,200') • 12,300’ | 3,749M

Back Carry and Acclimatization Day at Camp 1. After a leisurely breakfast we descend to our cache site at 11,200’ below Camp 1 to retrieve our cached gear. The afternoon is spent in camp resting and preparing for higher altitudes. (B, D)

Camp 1



Day 9

TRAINING AND ACCLIMATION CLIMB (15,200') • 12,300’ | 3,749M

We review basic mountaineering techniques such as ice axe arrest, crampon methods, and roped travel. Climbing the Mikelchiran Glacier, we ascend towards Camp 2 at Lenz Rocks at 15,200’, gaining familiarity with the route and exposure to new altitudes. We have the possibility to carry a small portion of our supplies to cache at Camp 2 in anticipation of our summit attempt. We return to our tents at Camp 1 for the night. (B, D)

Acclimation Climb



Day 10

MOVE TO HIGH CAMP • 15,200' | 4,633M

After establishing our camp, final preparations are made for Summit Day and we settle in early in anticipation of tomorrow's summit attempt. (B, D)

High Camp



Day 11

SUMMIT DAY (18,510') • 12,300’ | 3,749M

After an alpine start we climb from Lenz Rocks across the upper portion of the Mikelchiran Glacier until we reach the Saddle at 17,700'. Mt. Elbrus has two large summit domes and the Saddle separates the East Summit from the West Summit. Both are comparable in size, but the West Summit is slightly higher, and our objective. Our route gets steeper as we gain the upper summit plateau where we follow a broad ridge to the Summit. After enjoying the summit and its impressive views of the Caucasus mountain range, we descend down the route. Once we are back at High Camp, we pack up all of our gear up and continue our descent to Camp 1. (B, D)







Day 12

WEATHER DAY

Weather Day. This extra day is scheduled into the itinerary in case we encounter bad weather or need additional time for acclimatization. Having this extra day has proven to dramatically improve the team's success. (B, D)



Day 13

WEATHER DAY

Weather Day. This extra day is scheduled into the itinerary in case we encounter bad weather or need additional time for acclimatization. Having this extra day has proven to dramatically improve the team's success. (B, D)

Weather Day



Day 14

KISLOVODSK • 2,861' | 872M

We depart Camp 1 and start the descent, retracing our steps to Base Camp. An afternoon shuttle takes us back to Kislovodsk where we enjoy a delicious celebration dinner, hot showers, and a good night's sleep. (B)

Descend To Base Camp



Day 15

ST. PETERSBURG • 44' | 14M

We have a transfer from our hotel to Mineralnye Vody for our flight to St. Petersburg. We spend the night at the Hotel Arcadia in St. Petersburg. (B)

St. Petersburg



Day 16

ST. PETERSBURG • 44' | 14M

We take a tour of the stunning city of St. Petersburg. Must see attractions include a visit to St. Isaac's Cathedral, the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, the Hermitage, and walking along the banks of the city's many canals. In the evening we take a private boat cruise on the city's canals. We spend our final night in Russia at the Hotel Arcadia. (B)





Day 17

TRAVEL DAY

Return flights from St. Petersburg (LED) to the U.S. (B)



 

 

Key: B, L, D = Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner included.



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Travel Consultant

RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide comprehensive travel support. We have been working with Erin for many years. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe and is extremely knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or send email to etravel@cox.net.

Travel Insurance

Travel insurance is required for this trip. Your travel insurance policy should include trip cancellation, trip interruption, trip delay, baggage loss or delay, medical expenses, and evacuation.

Navigating through the different options for travel insurance can be confusing. To help make the process straightforward, we have partnered with Ripcord Insurance because their policies are specifically designed for adventure travel and offer coverage for remote areas, and for activities like mountaineering, climbing, skiing, and trekking, without any altitude restrictions.

The most comprehensive coverage available is Cancel For Any Reason. This policy must be purchased within 14 days of making the first payment towards your program. While this coverage is more expensive, it allows you to cancel for any reason no less than 48 hours before your departure date and still receive a refund of up to 75% of your costs.

When purchasing Travel Insurance, here are a few items to consider:

  • Read the fine print. Travel Insurance will refund you when canceling for a covered reason for any non-refundable cancellation fees. However, there are exclusions, so make sure you understand the "covered reasons."
  • Purchase coverage for Cancel For Any Reason within 14 days of making the first deposit payment towards your program.
  • Confirm that your activity is a covered “activity.” Not all travel insurance policies will offer coverage for activities such as mountaineering, climbing, skiing, or trekking adventures. Policies can also exclude coverage for activities due to the gear used (crampons, ice axe), for activities that go above certain elevations, or for activities in a particular region of the world. If there are exclusions, you may need to add an "Adventure" or "Sports" package to cover your activity.
  • Verify that your state of residence is allowed with the policy that you are purchasing. Not all insurance companies offer policies in all 50 states.

 

RipcordRipcord Rescue Travel Insurance is travel insurance designed for adventurers, including the best evacuation and rescue services available.

Benefits are tailored for adventurers and include:

  • Rescue and evacuation from the point of illness or emergency to your home hospital of choice.
  • Trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, sporting goods, baggage loss, emergency dental, Accidental Death & Dismemberment (AD&D) and more.
  • Completely integrated one-stop program with a single contact for emergency services to travel assistance and insurance claims.
  • 24/7 access to paramedics, nurses and military veterans.
  • Security extraction in case of unexpected dangerous and chaotic events.
  • Cancel For Any Reason (CFAR) options and pre-existing condition waiver within 14 days of your initial trip deposit.

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance is powered by Redpoint Resolutions, a medical and travel security risk company. Their team is comprised of special operations veterans, paramedics, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, former intelligence officers, insurance actuaries and global security experts with dozens of years of experience in theaters around the world. The Redpoint network covers the globe, making them uniquely equipped to provide elite rescue travel insurance – in every sense of the word. Whether it’s reimbursing you for a cancelled trip, paying your travel medical bills or evacuating you home in an emergency, Ripcord takes the worry out of your travel.

Security & Medical Evacuation

Global RescueGlobal Rescue is the world’s premier provider of medical and security advisory and evacuation services. Security Evacuation offers crisis evacuation services in non-medical situations. Examples include evacuations from areas affected by natural disasters, war or conflict zones, terrorism, and other areas in which participant security is threatened.

 

Travel Advisories / Warnings

Please confirm any current travel advisories/warnings as well as passport and visa requirements with the US Department of State.

Currently the US Department of State has a Travel Adivsory pertaining the the north Caucasus, including the Mount Elbrus area. Please review the Travel Advisory before registering for this program to ensure that you are aware of the non-climbing risks associated with this program.

Getting There

Travel to Moscow’s Sheremetyevo Airport (SVO) typically takes about 24 hours from the U.S. depending on your departure city, available connections, and flight times. Flights generally arrive in the afternoon on Day 2 of the itinerary. 

Departing flights from St. Petersburg (LED) may be booked for any time on Day 17, the final day of the program.

Entry Requirements

A valid passport is required when traveling to Russia. Your passport must be valid for 6 months beyond the expected return date.

We suggest making a copy of the first two pages of your passport and keeping them in a separate bag as a backup. A copy should also be left with your emergency contact.

A Visa is also required for entry to Russia. This must be done prior to your arrival or you will not be permitted to enter the country.

Russian Visa

Our office will provide you with the current application form, a written itinerary and a letter of invitation from our hosting organization in Russia. You will need to submit these forms along with a valid passport, an additional passport photo and payment to your local Russian Consulate or a travel document company that can assist you in processing the Russian Visa. This generally takes place 2 - 3 months before the trip departure and will take 4 - 20 business days to process. Once your visa arrives, please check the date to ensure it covers your complete stay.

Airport Arrival

Upon arrival proceed to the Immigrations desk for foreign travelers. Proceed to Baggage Claim and then to Customs. There will be a random selection of bags for inspection. Be sure to keep all your bags together. You can then hire a Yandex taxi to transfer to the hotel. 

In-Country Transportation

The provided transportation in Russia as stated in the itinerary is via private vehicle.

Immunizations & Travel Medicine

For the most current information on inoculation requirements and recommendations, please refer to the Center for Disease Control and Prevention.

Traveler's Health

Travelers often suffer from upset stomachs when in foreign countries. There are some basic rules, however, that can help keep you healthy.

  • Hygiene - It is important that you wash your hands thoroughly before meals and after using any bathroom. If water is not available for washing, we recommend using a hand sanitizer.
  • Water - The number one rule is: don't drink the water, and that includes shower water and ice! Brush your teeth with purified water rather than tap water. You should check bottled water for a good seal and use a napkin to wipe dry excess moisture in drinking glasses. Take care with fruit juice, particularly if it has been diluted with water. Carefully clean the tops of bottled beverages before opening.
  • Food - If you can cook it, boil it, or peel it; you can usually eat it. Salads and fruits should be washed with purified water or peeled where possible. Be wary of ice cream and shellfish. Always avoid any undercooked meat.

Medical Emergencies

Elbrus is a remote mountain without easy access to definitive medical care. We are our own rescue team.

The medical facilities in Moscow, St. Petersburg and other urban areas in Russia are limited except for routine, non-emergency needs. We will work with our tour operator to access an appropriate level of care should the need arise.

Russia Country Facts

Russia is the largest country in the world at almost twice the size of the United States. Officially known as the Russian Federation, its main attractions include art, magnificent (and newly restored) cathedrals and monasteries, treasures and palaces of the czars, the performing arts, health spas, river cruises, historic sites, spectacular scenery, Siberia, and Moscow's Kremlin.

Russia has a captivating history. Tradition says the Viking Rurik came to Russia in 862 and founded the first Russian dynasty in Novgorod. Through the 10th and 11th centuries, Christianity united the various tribes, but Mongol raids broke the Russian territories into smaller dukedoms. It was Ivan the Terrible (1533-1584) who is credited with founding the Russian state. The succeeding period saw power wrested into the hands of the czars and expanded Russian territory. These actions ultimately led to revolution and the creation of the Soviet Union (U.S.S.R.) in 1922. The Union dissolved in 1991 and Russia became the federal presidential republic that it is today.

Russia will appeal to travelers who have a sense of adventure and an open mind. Don't expect a relaxing vacation and, unless you're in Moscow or St. Petersburg, don't expect deluxe accommodations - a trip through Russia requires determination, flexibility and plenty of patience.

Weather

The climbing season extends from May to September, with the highest summit success rate from mid-July through mid-August. September through April comprises the rainy and winter seasons.

The weather in Moscow and while traveling to and from the mountains can be very warm.

While there can be no guarantees of perfect weather in the mountains, our expeditions take full advantage of both the weather and route conditions for this expedition, and utilize prime months for optimal climbing experiences.

Cultural Etiquette

Although it is not expected that we dress formally, we should dress modestly. Casual and comfortable clothing and shoes are suggested. Showing expensive cameras, watches, jewelry, etc. is considered unseemly and may attract unwanted attention.

Men shake hands when greeting one another and maintain direct eye contact. Women generally shake hands when meeting one another for the first time. In greetings between men and women, a light handshake is common. It is expected that you remove your gloves to shake hands, regardless of how cold it may be. The three alternating kisses used in greetings are common only between friends and family.

Chivalry, for the most part, is still valued in Russia. Men are expected to hold the door, offer their seat, or offer their coat.

Electricity

Electricity in Russia is different than in the United States. Russia has standardized on type F (Gost) sockets and plugs. Type C plugs and power points are still commonly found in older buildings. Both are used for 230 volt, 50 hertz appliances. U.S. appliances will require plug adaptors, convertors or transformers. Remember to bring any necessary adaptors if you plan to recharge electronics.

Money

The current currency of Russia is the Ruble. Currency can be easily converted at banks, hotels and kiosks. Check a financial newspaper or www.xe.com for the current exchange rate prior to departure.

We suggest bringing $600-$900 total for personal spending money including restaurant meals, drinks, pocket money, and the Support Staff Tip Pool.

Cash machines are still the best way to get money in country, so if you are in doubt, be sure to bring your cash card. Cash machines are readily available in Moscow and St. Petersburg, but become increasingly difficult to find outside of the main urban areas.

Credit cards are accepted in most, but not all, areas.

Everyone has a preferred way to carry money. Some use money belts, others have hidden pockets. Whatever you do, be aware of pickpockets in any area which caters to tourists.

Tipping

Everyone approaches tipping a little differently. Whether or not a person tips, and how much, is completely dependent upon the individual; here are some suggested tipping guidelines for your trip.

Local waiters, drivers, and other service personnel expect to be tipped. Ten to fifteen percent is standard. Some restaurants and hotels add a 10% service fee to bills in which case, no further tip is required.

Support Staff Tip Pool: We recommend that each climber contribute $75 to the Tip Pool. This is collected at the beginning of the trip and will cover group tips for all our support and mountain staff throughout the program.

Our guides work hard to ensure your well-being and success on the mountain. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment. Tips for excellent service normally average 10 – 15% of the cost of the program. If you would rather not bring the guide gratuity with you on the trip, you can send a check or call the RMI office to pay with a credit card upon your return.

Resources

http://wikitravel.org/en/Russia and https://www.lonelyplanet.com/russia offer a wealth of information.

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Qualifications

This trip is open to all individuals in excellent physical condition and is a great first trip to altitudes above 15,000'. Prior knowledge of, and comfort with, rope travel, the use of crampons, and ice axe arrest are required.

Our experience shows that individuals perform better and enjoy the adventure more if they have a high degree of fitness and comfort with basic mountaineering skills. This program’s high altitude and snowy terrain contribute to make this a very worthwhile challenge.

Qualifying Programs

Recommended climbing experiences prior to the Mt. Elbrus North Side climb include:

  • Get In The Best Shape Of Your Life
    And Then Go
    Climb A Mountain

    Create A Fitness And Training Program

    Go To Fitness Resources

Physical Fitness Training

Mountaineering requires a high degree of physical stamina and mental toughness. Even for the healthiest and fittest individuals, climbing mountains qualifies as an extremely challenging endeavor.

  • Start immediately. Start a rigorous fitness and training program now with the goal of arriving in top physical condition and confident in your skills.
  • Be intentional. Focus on gaining the necessary strength, stamina and skills to meet the physical and technical demands of the climb.
  • Be sport-specific. The best fitness and training program mimics the physical and technical demands of your climbing objective. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble the climbing.

For the Elbrus North Side climb, you are preparing for:

  • Trekking and glacier climbing with a 50-60 lb load
  • A 12+ hour summit day
  • Mountaineering techniques requiring core strength and flexibility

Nothing ensures a personally successful adventure like your level of fitness and training. Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life and ready for a very challenging adventure!

Please refer to our Resources for Mountaineering Fitness and Training for detailed fitness and training information.

Acclimatization

The key to climbing high is proper acclimatization. Our program follows a calculated ascent profile which allows time for your body to adjust to the altitude.

Excellent physical conditioning significantly increases your ability to acclimatize as you ascend. Climbers in excellent physical condition simply have more energy to commit to the acclimatization process throughout the days and nights of the ascent, allowing their bodies to adjust to the altitude more easily.

Finally, physical performance and acclimatization are also related to how well you have taken care of yourself throughout the hours, days and weeks prior to summit day. Arriving healthy and well-rested, maintaining proper hydration and caloric intake, and protecting against unnecessary heat loss (staying warm) are all key factors in an individual’s success on an expedition such as this.

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What You’ll Need

A list of required personal equipment accompanies every RMI program, and the thought process behind each item is much greater than simply “preparing for the worst and hoping for the best.” The list for your program takes into account factors such as: seasonality, route conditions, weather, elevation and more. As such, this list is framed within the broadest of contexts and is dynamic by its very nature. Therefore, certain variables (additions and/or subtractions) are inherent within such an all-encompassing list. We make every effort to recommend only top of the line clothing and technical gear and it is never our intention for you to buy or rent unnecessary gear.

The Guide Pick is an example of the listed item, giving you an idea of the material and specifications of the item. This exact item does not need to be purchased or used; however, any item you choose must have similar characteristics and performance abilities to the Guide Pick.

RMI Guides concur on the potential necessity of every item, thus every item on the list is required at gear check. However, guides may also have suggestions derived from their experience, some of which will vary from a given list. The guides’ recommendation whether to bring along or leave behind certain item(s) comes during the gear check, when the team first meets. Occasionally this recommendation comes at the expense of having previously purchased an item. If a guide presents the option of leaving behind certain item(s) on the list of required equipment, it is for a reason. Their recommendation may be related to the weather, route conditions, freezing level, perceived strength of the party, or desired pack weight.

Ultimately, there will never be a consensus for a “perfect” equipment list for an ascent. It does not exist because of the multitude of variables faced by climbers throughout the climb. Please follow this equipment list closely so that you will arrive for the gear check with all the required items. Keep in mind the list is not black and white, fine tuning will occur once you meet with your guide. Have a great climb!


  • Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering when they use code RMI2020 at checkout. This offer excludes sale items, rentals, meal packages, and Feathered Friends.

Shop Your Equipment List // Rent new equipment for your climb

Equipment List

    • ICE AXE

      The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm axe; and taller, use a 75 cm axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.

    • CLIMBING HARNESS

      We recommend a comfortable, adjustable alpine climbing harness. Removable, drop seat, or adjustable leg loops are convenient for managing your clothing layers over the course of the climb and facilitate going to the bathroom.

    • CRAMPONS

      12-point adjustable steel crampons with anti-balling plates designed for general mountaineering use.

    • GLACIER GLASSES

      Glacier glasses are protective sunglasses that provide close to 100% frame coverage (wrap-around frames and side shields ensure no light can enter from the top, bottom, and sides of the glasses) and transmit less than 10% of visual light.

    • GOGGLES

      Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. On windy days, climbers, especially contact lens wearers, may find photochromatic lenses the most versatile in a variety of light conditions.

    • Each glove layer is worn separately as conditions change during the climb.

    • We recommend a minimum of five upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Two of these should be insulating layers, one light and one medium, that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, soft-shell, down and synthetic options.

    • We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.

    • LIGHTWEIGHT TREKKING PANTS OR SHORTS

      A lightweight, synthetic pair of pants is a good option for the approach trek when hiking at lower altitudes and in warm conditions. These pants have no insulation, are typically made of thin nylon, and commonly feature zippers to convert between pants and shorts.

    • SINGLE OR DOUBLE MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS

      We recommend modern hybrid double boots for this climb because they provide the best balance of weight, comfort, and insulation. Insulated single mountaineering boots are also adaquate but might result in cold feet. Bring one pair of chemical foot wamers per summit day if you are using single mountaineering boots.

    • MEALS & SNACKS

      See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.

    • INSULATED MUG

      Insulated outdoor-style mug. We recommed a model with a removable lid, which helps retain heat and prevent spills.

    • SPOON OR SPORK

      A spoon or spork made of durable plastic or anodized metal. A long-handled spoon can be nice, especially if eating from a freeze-dried meal pouch.

    • 2 - 3 WATER BOTTLES

      One-liter water bottles with wide mouths made of co-polyester (BPA-free plastic).

    • 2 - 3 LARGE GARBAGE BAGS

      Heavy-duty trash compacter bags for use as waterproof pack/stuff sack liners. You can also use a a waterproof pack liner.

    • READING MATERIAL/JOURNAL (OPTIONAL)
    • PERSONAL TOILETRIES & BAG

      Include toilet paper, hand sanitizer, toothbrush and toothpaste, and wet wipes. Bring a quantity appropriate to the duration of your trip.

    • SUNSCREEN

      We recommend small tubes of SPF 30 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.

    • EAR PLUGS
    • SPARE CONTACT LENSES/ EYEGLASSES (OPTIONAL)

      Spare prescription glasses if you wear contact lenses/eyeglasses.

    • PEE FUNNEL (FOR WOMEN, OPTIONAL)

      Practice using this before coming on the climb!

    • CAMERA (OPTIONAL)

      Many smartphones have excellent cameras. Action cameras, small point-and-shoots, and compact dSLRs are lightweight and work well at altitude.

    • TRAVEL POWER ADAPTER

      For charging personal electronics while traveling internationally.

    • SMALL PERSONAL FIRST AID KIT

      Our guides carry comprehensive medical kits, so keep yours small and light. We recommend a selection of adhesive bandages, antibiotic ointment, Moleskin and blister care, medical tape and/or duct tape, cough drops, basic painkillers, an antacid, an anti-diarrheal, and personal medications.

    • We recommend you speak with your physician about which medications make sense to have for remote international travel and/or high altitude climbing. At minimum, we require the following:

    • ANTIBIOTICS

      Broad spectrum antibiotics like Ciprofloxacin (500mg tablets), Metronidazole, and Azithromycin (250mg tablets).

    • ACETAZOLAMIDE (DIAMOX)

      125mg tablets for prevention or treatment of Acute Mountain Sickness.

    • DEXAMETHAZONE

      4mg tablets for treatment of altitude illness.

    • TRAVEL CLOTHES

      We recommend bringing a selection of comfortable clothing to wear while traveling as well as pre- and post-trip.

    • SUNGLASSES
    • PASSPORT

      Valid for six months beyond your return date.

    • COPY OF PASSPORT

      The first two pages of your passport.

    • COPY OF FLIGHT ITINERARY
    • 2 EXTRA PASSPORT PHOTOS
    • COPY OF VISA INVITATION LETTER
    • Purchase travel insurance.

    • Purchase airplane tickets.

    • Reserve rental equipment.

    • Be in the best shape of your life!


Provided Equipment

RMI provides the following equipment for your program: tents, group cooking equipment, climbing ropes, avalanche probes and shovels.

Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a satellite phone for emergency contact.

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Meals

On Mt. Elbrus North Side you will need 10 mountain lunches. All of your mountain lunch items should weigh 6 - 7 lb.

Breakfast and dinner meals on the mountain are included as indicated in our Trip Itinerary. With the exception of hotel breakfasts, most restaurant meals are on your own. You are responsible for your own bottled water and drinks.

Mountain Lunches

Mountain lunches are eaten during short breaks throughout the day. We continually snack to keep our energy levels up while we climb - lunch begins just after breakfast and ends just before dinner! Avoid packing any items that require preparation or hot water.

The importance of having foods that are genuinely enjoyed cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. In order to combat the loss of appetite at altitude we aim to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, from sweet to sour to salty.

Recommended mountain lunch items: dry salami, smoked salmon, jerky (turkey, beef, fish), small cans of tuna fish, individually wrapped cheeses such as Laughing Cow or Baby Bell, crackers, bagels, candy bars, hard candies (Jolly Ranchers, Toffees, Life Savers), Gummy Bears, sour candies (Sweet Tarts), cookies, dried fruit, nuts, energy bars, GORP mixes, and drink mixes (Gatorade/Kool-Aid).

We may have a chance to purchase additional food in Russia, but we recommend you take what you need and only supplement with local food if necessary.

Breakfast

The breakfast menu includes items such as instant oatmeal, cold cereals (granola), breakfast bars, hot drinks (coffee, tea, cocoa, cider) and local fresh fruit.

Dinner

Dinner usually begins with soup and ends with dessert, followed by a round of hot drinks. Healthy one-pot meals, incorporating fresh local food whenever practical, are served as the main course. One typical main course dinner might be spaghetti with fresh vegetables. There are limitations, but the menu is planned to offer good variety and ample portions.

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Payments

Deposit Payments: A non-refundable deposit payment of $1,250 per person secures your reservation.

  • Deposit payments of $1,250 or less may be made via MasterCard, Visa, e-check, or check from a U.S. bank.

Balance Payments: The balance payment is due 120 days before the start of your program.

  • Balance payments may only be made via e-check, check from a U.S. bank or wire transfer.*
    • *Wire transfers must cover all fees charged by your bank. The amount of the incoming wire to our bank must equal the balance payment amount.
  • A payment reminder is emailed approximately three weeks before your payment due date. If your balance payment is not received 120 days before the start of your program, your reservation will be canceled, and all program fees forfeited.
  • Payment in full is required when registering for a program within 120 days of the departure date.

Cancellation

The $1,250 per person deposit is non-refundable.

  • All cancellations require written notification. Once the RMI Office receives your written notification of cancellation, the following apply:
    • If you cancel 120 or more days before the start of your program, the $1,250 per person deposit will not be refunded.
    • If you cancel less than 120 days before the start of your program, no refunds will be issued.

Due to the time-sensitive nature of these programs, and the amount of preparation time required for this program, it is unlikely that a vacant space will be filled close to the departure date. For this reason, we will strictly adhere to our policy and cannot make exceptions for any reason.

Cancellation Insurance

We require that everyone purchase travel insurance. Please see our Travel Tab for details.

Land Cost

INCLUDED

  • RMI Leadership
  • Hotel accommodations as indicated in the itinerary, based on double occupancy*
  • All park entrance fees
  • Sight seeing arrangements as indicated in the itinerary
  • Airfare from Moscow to Mineralnye Vody to St. Petersburg
  • All group transportation in country as stated in the itinerary
  • All breakfast and dinner meals on the mountain and other meals as stated in the itinerary
  • All group cooking, climbing and camping equipment

NOT INCLUDED

  • International airfare
  • Travel insurance, medical evacuation insurance and security evacuation insurance
  • Passport and visa fees
  • Excess baggage fees from U.S. or flights within Russia
  • Departure taxes
  • Meals not included in the itinerary
  • Bottled water and personal drinks
  • Customary guide gratuities
  • Support Staff Tip Pool (we suggest $75 per person)
  • Additional room charges including laundry service and other personal expenses
  • Hotel accommodations not indicated in the itinerary
  • Transfer from Airport to Moscow Hotel on arrival
  • Transfer from St. Petersburg Hotel to Airport for outbound flight
  • Medical, hospitalization and evacuation costs (by any means)

* Single Travelers: Accommodations are based on double occupancy.  A Single Supplement Fee will be charged to those occupying single accommodations by choice or circumstance. The single supplement is not available in huts, tents, or in all hotels.

Risk Management

Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. Managing risk is RMI’s number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering such as avalanches, ice fall, rockfall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them.

You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risk and hazards of mountaineering, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.

PARTICIPANT Responsibilities

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Each Participant is required to share in the responsibility of the safety and success of the team. For this reason, we ask that each Participant:

  • Possess the climbing prerequisites required for this program.
  • Possess the necessary physical and mental fitness required for this program.
  • Be responsible for knowing all pre-departure information.
  • Provide a signed Physician’s Certificate stating that the Participant is medically qualified to join this program.
  • Update the RMI Office if there are any changes to your health or medical information before departure.
  • Be properly attired and equipped as outlined in the Equipment List.
  • Act in a considerate manner toward all team members and show respect for local customs, values, and traditions in the areas we travel.
  • Help minimize our impact on the environment and follow appropriate Leave No Trace practices.
  • Describe yourself, honestly and accurately, in terms of fitness, health, skills, abilities, and your equipment to your guide staff.
  • Communicate with your guide staff on the mountain if there are any changes in your medications or health.
  • Adhere to the advice of your guide staff.
  • Continue to self-assess throughout the program, measuring your fitness, health, skills, and abilities against the demands required of the program.

RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a program or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if the RMI Guide Staff determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for, or capable of participating in the program, or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health or well-being of the Participant or the entire group. If this decision is made, the Participant will not receive any refunds or credits and will be financially responsible for any additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to, evacuation, transportation, hotel reservationss, meals, etc.

Age-Appropriate Guidelines & Restrictions

In the interest of the safety and well-being of all participants, RMI adheres to the following age-appropriate guidelines:

  • Ages 15 & under: No participants age 15 & under
  • Ages 16 & 17: Accompanied by a parent or legal guardian for the duration of the program
  • Ages 18 & above: No restrictions 

An individual’s birthday must precede the departure date of the program. For example, a 15-year-old who turns 16 on July 1 may participate on a program beginning July 2.

Under-aged participants on Private Climb or Group Climb programs are assessed on an individual basis.

A parent or legal guardian must accompany the minor climber throughout the entirety of the program. If either climber must descend at any time during the program, both climbers must descend together.

A parent or legal guardian must sign for any Participant that is under 18 years of age. On behalf of any minor participant, the parent or legal guardian understands and accepts all the terms of the Program Policies.

Summit Attempt

RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire group may have to turnaround without reaching the summit.

Failure to reach the summit due to a person’s own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route conditions, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.’s responsibility and will not result in a refund, credit, or reschedule.

General Policies

RMI’s program schedule and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, group strength, terrain, or other environmental factors, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including but not limited to increases in program fees, changes to program schedule or itinerary, and changes to guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program. Once the program has started, the Lead Guide will decide on any changes to the itinerary, including ending the program early if the continuation of the program may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the group.

We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather, route conditions, or for any other reason. In such a case, we will make every effort to reschedule the Participant on a different program date. If rescheduling is not possible, we will issue the Participant a refund for all program fees paid to RMI, less any non-refundable payments made on behalf of the Participant to secure any of the included land costs provided for this program, including but not limited to, hotel accommodations, transportation, transfers, tours, group equipment and food, permits, and local outfitter services, prior to the cancellation of the program. Additionally, RMI cannot be responsible for any non-refundable expenses the Participant incurred in preparation for the program (i.e., airline tickets, hotel reservations, rental cars, equipment purchases or rentals, etc.).

Once a program begins, there are no refunds or credits for weather-related cancellations or for a program that may end early due to weather, route conditions, or any other circumstances that may compromise the health, safety, or well-being of the group. Furthermore, if the Participant decides for any reason not to begin a program or to discontinue a program at any time, no refunds or credits will be issued. The Participant will be responsible for all additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to evacuation, transportation, hotel reservations, meals, etc.

Land Costs are provided as a package, and refunds or credits will not be issued for any unused meals, accommodations, group transportation, or other unused costs. Accommodations are based on double occupancy. A Single Supplement Fee will be charged to those Participants occupying single accommodations either by choice or circumstance. If you are willing to share a room, we will make every effort to pair you with another same-gender team member. We will match willing same-gender team members based on the order of registration date. If we are unable to match you with another same-gender team member, a single supplement fee will be charged. The availability of single accommodations is limited in most of the hotels where we stay, and single accommodations are not available while in the mountains.

The Participant understands and agrees that RMI assumes no responsibility or liability in connection with any travel and hospitality services provided to the Participant by other companies in connection with the program, including but not limited to, the services provided by airlines, hotels, rental cars, and transportation companies and that RMI is not responsible for any act, error, omission, or any injury, loss, accident, delay, irregularity, or danger by a supplier of travel or hospitality services to the Participant in connection with the RMI program. The Participant will be responsible for all costs associated with any travel delays, missed connections, or missing baggage that requires additional arrangements (separate transportation, hotel accommodations, meals, etc.) to be made on your behalf for you or your baggage to rejoin the program.

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